Super Jet Project Dance-floor

lextreme

lextreme

Location
woodridge IL
question for you... what are your plans for the stock hood finger hook/handle in the center of the hood?.. I'm in the middle of doing my SN hood mod but do not want to cover up the mounting holes for it so I can remove it for paint and reinstall afterwards...
 
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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
lextreme said:
question for you... what are your plans for the stock hood finger hook/handle in the center of the hood?.. I'm in the middle of doing my SN hood mod but do not want to cover up the mounting holes for it so I can remove it for paint and reinstall afterwards...
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I am going to cut a piece of fiberglass plate using the plastic one as a template. Instead of bolting it I plan on riveting it in so I dont have to worry about access to the nuts under the hood liner.
 
S

Storbeck

Location
Minnesota
Req said:
I have tried it both ways with good luck. The carnuba wax made it a bit easier to peel it but I did not wax on the hood liner or toe hold and they popped out without much fuss. I dont think I am going to bother with wax in the future, it really doesnt do much.
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Are you using both the sticky side and the "back" side of the tape against the glass? In the top of the hood and the sealing of the back corners of the hull the tape is sticky side toward the glass, but maybe you're doubling up the tape so that there is another layer non-sticky toward the glass?
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Storbeck said:
Are you using both the sticky side and the "back" side of the tape against the glass? In the top of the hood and the sealing of the back corners of the hull the tape is sticky side toward the glass, but maybe you're doubling up the tape so that there is another layer non-sticky toward the glass?
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Yes I did use the non sticky side of the tape but in the corners there were a few spots that did not get coverage, they also peeled just fine surprisingly. I also tried printer paper to cover the sticky and it just soaked the resin, it sanded off just fine but not ideal.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I finished the outside of the hood and I am very happy with it. Came out pretty awesome and once covered in paint should shine like a penny.

A friend came over and helped me sand the bottom a little bit. Unfortunately he got a little bit carried away with the orbital and slightly change the profile of one of my chines so I'm going to have to address that at some point. After some crying and laughing and a few beers we're still friends but it was a rough patch there for a minute.

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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I am going to make my exhaust tube out of fiberglass to save a few pounds and I figured this would be a good chance to try my hand at polyester resin. Since Im not bonding to the original hull with this part its of little consequence and will save me a few bucks and give me an experience with polyester. I am also going to make a plate for the floor of the tray and I am going to use polyester for that as well. When I glass it to the hull I will of course use epoxy resin and put a few layers of biax over it and up the gunwales to secure it.

Any tips on tube size? I can go for anything from 2 - 2.5 ID I figure. Any tips on working with polyester resin? What are your thoughts on my scupper tube being fiberglass as well?

Looking for feedback, thanks!
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Big Kahuna said:
Have you looked into the heat properties of Poly? Can it survive that kind of heat? You will need to pressure test it before you insert it.
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The number I keep finding on max temperature is 140F, considering its a wet exhaust I think that is within reason. Some members have used PVC as the long tube in the hull and I think I have seen a hull or two with a PVC through tube, Poly resin has the same temp limit of 140f.

I would of course pressure test it, I could also possibly coat the inside of the tube with something to avoid pin leaks and reduce the temp getting to the glass.

Thanks.

Edit. Epoxy resin is about 150f so not a ton better heat resistance.
I also have a SS tube and PVC tube if I wanted to do it a bit more traditional on the exhaust and scupper, its just a bit heavier.
 
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iQRTurbo

iQRTurbo

siliconeintakes.com

Check them out for all your exhaust tubing. They have everything you need. .065 aluminum straight tubes, mandrel bent sweeps in many different angles, silicone tubes, sweeps, adapters and adapter sweeps in every angle and color you could want. They are very reasonably priced and ship fast. They even have carbon fiber and stainless tubes.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Looking at the weight I would only save a pound or two going with aluminum or composite. Lightest I could hope for is .8 lbs per foot and the SS tube I have is 1.2lbs per foot. I dont think its worth losing sleep over at max 2lbs.

More important than weight is where on the firewall I should pop it out. Some AM hulls have the exhaust tube stick a ways into the engine bay. The stock tube sits pretty close to the side of the ski and sticks out only a few inches from the firewall. Is there any rhyme or reason to where it should pop through other than making sure im in the general area?
 
Carrera911

Carrera911

Location
Cumming, Georgia
Req said:
Looking at the weight I would only save a pound or two going with aluminum or composite. Lightest I could hope for is .8 lbs per foot and the SS tube I have is 1.2lbs per foot. I dont think its worth losing sleep over at max 2lbs.

More important than weight is where on the firewall I should pop it out. Some AM hulls have the exhaust tube stick a ways into the engine bay. The stock tube sits pretty close to the side of the ski and sticks out only a few inches from the firewall. Is there any rhyme or reason to where it should pop through other than making sure im in the general area?
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Doubt it makes a difference as long as you have clearance in the engine bay and the pipe goes high enough to get it above the waterline. Yamaha went out of the way to put it as high as possible on the bulkhead and my only guess why is to keep water from back flowing with the engine off.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
So had a big day and finished the lower section of the tray and firewall with a layer of 1708, I can start running through hull tubes now once it cures. I also put a few patches on the underside of the hood liner where my fire extinguisher bracket is going and my drop hoses are punching through, I didn't want to add much weight so I just added a layer of 1708 where I thought it was needed. Additionally, after faring the nose there were some thin spots in the glass so I added another layer of 9oz glass with the leftover resin.

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Downrange

Downrange

Location
Northern michigan
Good work going on in here. Are you cutting away the tunnel now for inspection. I have top coated epoxy with poly resin with no problems , but not the other way around. Its just a mechanical bond so you should be good. Regardless the poly will be a nice break, it flows and wets out easier and sets so much quicker. Also the post cure finish is way better, you may get addicted to it. Its like a easy button.
 
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