Super Jet Project Dance-floor

[Req]

@Downrange I am not revealing the tunnel until I have the 155 pump built and im a few months away from getting that done. Im just going to run my working 144 with a solas concord 9/15.

I went ahead and made the plate out of 3 layers of 1708 and two layers of 9oz and polyester resin and it turned out really good and strong. I used another sheet of foam and some painters plastic to make a press of sorts. Worked really well smelled really awful.

 

[Req]

Since this stuff cures so quick I was able to get it cut and in place fairly easily as well. I really like how the floor looks, I cant wait to glass this in after construction foam.

 

[mase911j]

Sooo..... how much time and in materials are you sitting at?

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Req]

Over 100 hours, 11 yards of biax, 3 yards of 9 oz, one yard S glass, 2.5 gallons of epoxy, half a tub of 3m glass bubbles, 3/4 tub of cabosil, thus far. Only a few more yards to go.

I could probably do it in half of the time next build, its going faster as I progress and learn.

 

[Req]

The tray space is ridiculous. I put my size 12 shoes on the tray just to put it into perspective. So much space for activities!

 

[Storbeck]

That's awesome. What is your plan for the top of the gunnels?

 

[Req]

Im tempted to run 1" neoprene all the way up the sides trimmed flush with the top and roll the turf over the edge and use that to thicken the gunnels. I can also go a bit more traditional and just run a border around the edge with some half inch or one inch construction foam and cover that in glass like a rickter.

I would like to do the neoprene thing if I can get away with it, every time I have mocked up something for the gunnels it just looks wonky, I prefer the straight up gunnels without the pocket look but I understand this gunnel is a liability if its not fattened up.

 

[Dorny119]

Plans for adjustable foot holds?

 

[Req]

Plans for adjustable foot holds?

Im going to make my own eventually. The gunwales are more than beefy enough for them.

 

[yamanube]

Build up an edge or you might cut off a butt cheek.

 

[Req]

Build up an edge or you might cut off a butt cheek.

That is oddly specific but you are right. Here are a couple of options that I'm kicking around. One is one inch and will stick out a half in the other is 2 inch and we'll stick out 1/2 inch. When I looked at the one inch thick foam it was just too much.

 

[Downrange]

I would just take some two inch stripes of 1/2" padding along the edge inside and outside to build it. Round it over and feather the bottom edge of it out. That would give it a good look and keep the split butt cheeks to a minimum. Man your rocked that tray piece, nicely done.

 

[Req]

I would just take some two inch stripes of 1/2" padding along the edge inside and outside to build it. Round it over and feather the bottom edge of it out. That would give it a good look and keep the split butt cheeks to a minimum. Man your rocked that tray piece, nicely done.

That would be picture 2 in the post above. That sounds about right to me, I can round the edges of the foam pretty easily with the rasp I picked up at Lowe's.

 

[2lick]

Getting cooler each page you add. Keep it up man!

 

[Req]

I was doing some adult coloring and drew where I'm thinking about putting the exhaust, scupper, and tray drains. I am wanting to inboard them and run them as high as possible to keep the exhaust out of the water when underway. I haven't seen anyone run them this far inboard and up but I see no reason why it would not work.

Any thoughts?

 

[Sanoman]

I was doing some adult coloring and drew where I'm thinking about putting the exhaust, scupper, and tray drains. I am wanting to inboard them and run them as high as possible to keep the exhaust out of the water when underway. I haven't seen anyone run them this far inboard and up but I see no reason why it would not work.

Any thoughts?

View attachment 373211View attachment 373212

Why reinvent the wheel?
While you are "under way" your exhaust is not in the water anyway.When you are stopped,it doesn't matter where the exhaust or scupper tube is,it's gonna be under water.Put it back where it was.Might even drain better..
Now get back to work

 

[Req]

The wheel is a flawed design

A couple people I have talked to recommended running the exhaust tube as high as possible, keeps it from dipping in the water as much in right turns or something. I just like symmetry so I was going to match the scupper to the exhaust tube wherever that ends up.

It really doesn't matter I suspect when its all said and done. Im sure it will run fine and drain fine in either config, I am just thinking out options.

 

[Big Kahuna]

Exhaust hitting the water in right or left turns does not effect anything. Exhaust issues only really effect short comp hulls where the exhaust is forward of the nozzles. Being high or low will not effect handling. Being high though will make it easier for water to backflow into your waterbox. You want your scupper as centered.

 

[Req]

Exhaust hitting the water in right or left turns does not effect anything. Exhaust issues only really effect short comp hulls where the exhaust is forward of the nozzles. Being high or low will not effect handling. Being high though will make it easier for water to backflow into your waterbox. You want your scupper as centered.

I guess center-ish for both tubes it is.

 

[imabadfish]

Way to commit and get this done. Curious what end result will be and a ride report.