Super Jet Project Dance-floor

Downrange

Downrange

Location
Northern michigan
Lay a 6"x6" peice of each up and do a deformation/ bend test. Then you will have your answer. Also think about stress points that you see common failures. Historically the sides of the engine area need reinforcement. The bottoms don't fail. Since you did the reinforcement of the bulkhead and the front foothold just tying into those structures along the sides will give all the strength you need.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Downrange said:
Lay a 6"x6" peice of each up and do a deformation/ bend test. Then you will have your answer. Also think about stress points that you see common failures. Historically the sides of the engine area need reinforcement. The bottoms don't fail. Since you did the reinforcement of the bulkhead and the front foothold just tying into those structures along the sides will give all the strength you need.
Click to expand...

The whole side or just near the engine? Upper or lower half? Based on the thickness and what I have read 17biax is stronger and lighter than 1208 and people reinforce with a single layer of 1208 all the time. I dont mind doing two layers in key areas (already have a layer of 1708 on the metton upper since its crack prone), is that the area you are concerned about?
 
Downrange

Downrange

Location
Northern michigan
I would just do the the bottom half of the side from the bulkhead forward about 18" and wrap around 3-4 " on the bulkhead. Also include those engine mounts . Kinda tying the side,bulkhead and mounts together with on layer on each side. What you have is already stronger , now your just trying structures together while trying to minimize weight gain .
 
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SXIPro

SXIPro

JM781 Big Bore
Location
Here on the 'X' mostly
Req said:
I know it seems trivial but I stood on the tray this morning and doing that really helped me realize its actually coming together! Feels super solid and probably did not need the expandable foam, however I was doing it more for my through hull tubes than anything.

Next is prepping the engine bay for reinforcement and working on the tray gunwales to fatten them up.

I am thinking about going light on the engine bay, one layer of 17oz non biax under the engine area and another over the entire engine bay. Should be quite a bit lighter than a single layer of 1708 and stronger than 1208. If anyone doesnt think thats enough let me know.

The gunwales I am thinking a half inch square of foam running the edge should be enough, put a nice 45 bevel on the underside and a rounded edge and it should be good for glass I think.

I need to decide eventually what external controls I want, if any. Fuel selector, choke, primer, bilge. I could make a pocket to mount them in and rivet it in I suppose. I have been a less is more sort of guy and dont generally run a choke or primer but it may be advisable. Bilges have been a plug them in when I get to the lake sort of affair and that has been fine so far, I always pop the hood regardless before I start at the lake.
Click to expand...
I would vote for an externally mounted primer. Quicker starts, longer battery life, and sure helps when you suck some water into the carbs.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
Me and @Downrange spoke at length earlier and I am going a bit lighter on the engine bay. The bottom of the ski is exceptionally thick forward of the firewall so minimal if any reinforcement is needed there.

Layup schedule is going like this.

Layer one; Sides: 17oz biax (no mat), Firewall to front motor mount, Bond line to inside of motor mounts.

Layer two; Sides: 17oz biax (no mat), Firewall to nose, hood seal to 3" tabs on floor

Layer three; Floor: 6 oz cloth, just to soak up the titanium dioxide dyed resin and stain it white, little or no strength, just aesthetic.

Additionally I may post cure the whole ski by making a kiln out of polyisocyanurate foam and getting as close to 200f as I can for a few hours.
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I am also putting together an order with mcmaster carr and jetmaniac. If I am missing anything that I should be grabbing let me know.

McMasterCarr

5 packUFO mounts
Adhesive-Mount Nut
316 Stainless Steel, 10-32 Thread Size
98007A024

Pump npt fittings
Brass Barbed Hose Elbow
90 Degree Angle, 1/2" Hose ID, 1/4 NPTF Male End
53525K19

Semi-Clear Soft Tygon PVC Tubing
for Fuels and Lubricants, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD
5552K24


Semi-Clear Soft Tygon PVC Tubing
for Fuels and Lubricants, 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD
5552K23


3 Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Plug, 1/4 Coupling Size, for 3/8" Barbed Tube ID
5012K72


6 Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Socket, 1/4 Coupling Size, for 3/8" Barbed Tube ID
5012K68 (three extras for flush kit)

For Fuel x2: Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Plug with Shut-Off, 1/4 Coupling Size, for 1/4" Barbed Tube ID
5012K85


For Fuel x2: Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Socket with Shut-Off, 1/4 Coupling Size, for 1/4" Barbed Tube ID
5012K82


Fuel Safe oring for quick disconnect: Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 011
9464K13


For primer x2: Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Socket with Shut-Off, 1/8 Coupling Size, for 1/8" Barbed Tube ID
5012K38


For primer x2: Plastic Quick-Disconnect Tube Coupling for Air and Water
Plug with Shut-Off, 1/8 Coupling Size, for 1/8" Barbed Tube ID
5012K44


Chemical-Resistant Viton® Fluoroelastomer O-Ring
1/16 Fractional Width, Dash Number 008
9464K13


Temperature-Indicating Labels
Horizontal Orientation, 86 Degree to 140 Degree F
59535K13






JetManiac


Hood side prongs (Stock SS or Cold fusion?)

SS pole bolt

Turf

second hood side catch?


I am think about running two hood latches on the outer flank of the flat section of the hood/dash. I thought it may give me some added security without having to resort to a hood strap. Thoughts? I would need to order a hood side catch, I have the latch.

Thanks
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
The weather got really wet so sanding and fiberglassing got nixed for the day. Hopefully it clears long enough to at least sand the areas I need to outdoors tomorrow.

It sucks donkey balls.

giphy.gif


On a side note, does anyone know the part number for the studs I should use for the cold fusion pole bracket? Im going to order some stuff from mcmastercarr soon.
 
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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I'm building the tray gun whale section. Glued the foam in earlier with gorilla 5-minute epoxy. I then sanded it and followed it it up with extra thick 3m glass beads.

Now I'm waiting for it to tack up enough for me to lay a single layer of 17oz biaxe over it.

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lextreme

lextreme

Location
woodridge IL
Req said:
I'm working on the hood this weekend. I installed the fire extinguisher bracket in the hoodliner. I also mocked up where the hoses are probably going to be, they would both sit between the engine and gas tank.

I'm debating as to whether I should glue the hood liner in or fiberglass the hood liner in. The part came out good enough where I can just glue it in with epoxy glue and it would be fine i think.

Additionally im thinking about getting a small pelican case just big enough for a phone/paperwork/tobacco and bolting it through the liner like the fire extinguisher bracket, possibly above the head or gas tank.

Any thoughts are welcome.
View attachment 373757View attachment 373758
Click to expand...
Question for you... What hook mounts did u use for the fire extinguisher tie downs( stock round nose bracket setup?) Trying to get ideas of where to put my extinguisher and I like how clean your setup looks... Thanks for any help
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
lextreme said:
Question for you... What hook mounts did u use for the fire extinguisher tie downs( stock round nose bracket setup?) Trying to get ideas of where to put my extinguisher and I like how clean your setup looks... Thanks for any help
Click to expand...


It was what was on a 91 SN I had, under the hood, with a piece of foam on the outside for the pole to hit. Not sure if all square noses had them but mine did.
 
lextreme

lextreme

Location
woodridge IL
Req said:
It was what was on a 91 SN I had, under the hood, with a piece of foam on the outside for the pole to hit. Not sure if all square noses had them but mine did.
Click to expand...
Hmm my 90 SN has the black tube in the front of the tray... I'll look around see what I can find.. I found the yellow tube with traps on eBay but not the hooks... I'll keep searching.. thanks!
 
Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
I finished pouring the foam yesterday and it filled the rest of the cavity up. This officially puts a nail in the coffin of the tray except for a patch here and there where I filled it with foam and another spot I had to grind out.

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Req

Req

Location
SW Tenn
So a weird thing happened overnight. It seems that slow cure stuff is the gift that keeps on giving. I finished a section of the nose with a small amount of slow cure from US Composites, it decided it wanted to delaminate overnight. I did it over 2 months ago. Only thing I can figure is that I didn't run my heater hot enough when i put the glass down and it did not cure completely. The side that was closest to the heater doesn't seem to have any issues.

I put a couple heaters in the engine bay, closed the hood and got the engine bay up into the 150s for the entire day just to make sure nothing else would delaminate. I then threw it on my jet ski caddy and hauled ass around town on the roughest roads I could find. If it was going to delaminate it should have delaminated

The solution... Grind out the affected area sand the entire nose thoroughly and recover in glass. Not slow cure.

Son of a b****

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