Super Jet Project Dance-floor

[Req]

I did a straight tube but if you have the room in you right gunwale putting an angle or bend may be good. I had a toe hold to contend with. Stock on the square it sort of points up at an angle and cuts through part of the right gunwale, not really a bend in the stock one even.

I have seen people get a 2.5" PCV tube and cut teeth in it, tape it to a hole saw and you got yourself a long hole saw that shouldn't cut through fiberglass, just foam.

It may be a pain to do but I think you can do it without totally gutting your tray. You could also take the opportunity to refoam and totally gut it as well if you like, may be easier than fighting the foam.

Good luck.

Edit: Just read you tray is defoamed, sorry, did not have my coffee yet. Super easy then, just cut bigger holes and slide the tube in. One thing however, if your rear has been chopped and its at an angle like mine you will have to oval the hole since you are not going through the transom at a 90 degree angle.

 

[Req]

After talking to @Sanoman I have started mocking up a pocket for the Hydro-Turf to rollover and Rest in. Sort of like an FX1 or super freak has a recessed area for the turf to set. Im thinking like an eighth of an inch. I am probably going to pick up a trim router at Harbor Freight today.

Here is the mock-up with masking tape. I think it looks pretty good. If anyone has any input let me know.



Additionally, I masked off the engine bay, however the weather is not cooperating so I am waiting for it to dry out before I glass.

 

[Req]

Here is the routered Out section. I'm going to Bevel the top Edge and let the turf butt up against the bottom Edge. I'm not totally sure how I'm going to finish the rear section since the router won't fit but a 1 in belt sander freehand is about the only idea I have.

 

[Downrange]

Here is the routered Out section. I'm going to Bevel the top Edge and let the turf butt up against the bottom Edge. I'm not totally sure how I'm going to finish the rear section since the router won't fit but a 1 in belt sander freehand is about the only idea I have.

View attachment 375083View attachment 375084View attachment 375085View attachment 375086

Nice touch.

 

[Req]

I beveled it and I'm thinking I might call this good. I'm going to drape a layer of glass over it and but it up to the edge to give myself a little more beef on the gunwale tops and a little bit of beef where I made it super thin with the router.

I think I'm just going to let the turf climb out of the trench at the bottom rear of the gunwales. I can't get a router in there and the belt sander is a little too unpredictable but I think it will look good regardless.

 

[Req]

Today was one of those days where I did more work then pictures would indicate. I did another couple of hours of sanding in the engine bay and under the nose.

I also cut the ride plate and stripped a few more things off of my other Square nose.

I mocked my short round nose pole up and while it's not ideal it'll work if I can't find something before the summer. Obviously I'm going to strip it reinforced it and paint it. I did discover in mocking everything up that the cold fusion pole bracket needs to be reamed out on one end to fit a superjet pole bolt. I think it might be by Design.

 

[Downrange]

Funny how those sanding hours add up quick. Like those tow hooks thats how I have mine set up. I ride with a old ski boat two point rig in a bag under my handle bar for towing in other skis. It is the only way to tow, no cock eyed tracking.

 

[Req]

Funny how those sanding hours add up quick. Like those tow hooks thats how I have mine set up. I ride with a old ski boat two point rig in a bag under my handle bar for towing in other skis. It is the only way to tow, no cock eyed tracking.

I was just thinking that today, its crazy how many hours I have sanding, sanding again, seeing something and sanding some more. I dont mind glassing, I mind sanding.

Good idea bout the two point rig, Ill rig something up so I can tow. I really wanted to triangulate the tie downs so when I carry my ski on its carrier, should give it more lateral stability on the bunks without the need for a burrito strap. It lives on the back of my SUV in the summer.

 

[Req]

If someone could walk me through the pros and cons of cutting the rear bond rail I would appreciate it. I see that many people tend to cut a relief in the bond rail at the back when they shorten it. It makes sense to me as it lets the water in the rub rail pocket exit the rear of the ski without having to climb out of the channel or turn toward the pump.

Is that the main reason behind doing it or can it be kept without major consequence? Pretty much all of the AM hulls ditch the rear lip, I cant imagine they do it for no reason.

 

[Req]

I moved the jet ski into my office so I could work in a controlled temperature. I put down cabosil in the motor mounts, nose, and a bubble I ground out in the bond line.

I was going to try to lay the glass today before the cabosil tacked up but I think I'm going to have to hit it with a sander since I couldn't get the cabosil to do exactly what I wanted, slightly too thin. I ended up damming it up with some competitors business cards, that will show em. I'll hit it tomorrow and then lay glass before the weekend is out.

 

[Req]

It's over, it's done.

Finally got the engine bay done and the motor mounts covered. I'm very happy with the way it turned out and suspect it will be quite strong. I am really fond of the foam resin roller after today.

 

[Req]

My back was not happy after doing the engine bay so I moved to something that was a little bit easier to get to. I flipped the ski over and decided to address the bond line Fiasco I created for myself when I moved it up a little bit. I thought it was going to be much more difficult but I got it all ground out in about 2 and 1/2 hours. I almost punched through to the fiberglass reinforcement on the backside i ground so much out.

I'm going to layer three strips of 17 Oz biax inside the bond rail to stitch it all back up again.

I suspect I ground out over a pound of material, possibly two. It was a lot.

 

[Req]

Once I got the shape that I was looking for and everything symmetrical I pre-cut my fiberglass pieces for my layup. I went with three layers of 17 Oz non backer in the channel and up the sides with each tabbing over a little further. I also put a piece of 17 Oz non backer and 1708 with backer on the nose. I gently conformed them to the shape, stretching the threads with care.



cont...

 

[Req]

I then mixed up some cabosil and filled in any voids as well as built up a spot where a friend got a little bit crazy with the orbital.

I immediately started laying fiberglass in the order that I laid it dry. It took 10 oz of resin.

The beauty of non backer biax is you can sort of coax it to conform to odd shapes.

The green line under the glass on the nose is the old bond line location for reference.

 

[Req]

I didn't do a ton today. All I did was trim the bond line and fair and glass over that low spot in the hull

 

[Req]

another light day but I chased down a few things. I covered the two holes where I poured foam with two layers of 9 oz s glass. I also covered the gunwale tops with a layer of 6 oz cloth and fared the channel in with some cabosil and glass beads.

 

[Req]

I worked on prepping the dash and foothold for the final glassing today, I am planning on glassing it tonight. I needed to round the top edge of the hold and blend the old dash to my new section. Additionally I had a lot of material that was unnecessary weight on the edges of the foothold. I ground it out all the way down to the A pillar I created in page 5. It widened the hold a bit and lightened the ski im sure. Im going to follow it up tonight with a couple layers of glass over the ground out area and a layer over the dash/hold.



I also threw a tape measure at the tray to demonstrate the nutty proportions we are talking about.



More to come later.

 

[Req]

I glassed the dash and the edges of the foothold in. One layer of 1708 for the edges and a layer of 17 biax for the dash.

 

[Sanoman]

Hey Req,what's the current labor time and materials looking like at this point? Also weight?

 

[Req]

Im sure I am approaching the 500 mark for both hrs and basic materials cost, but I stopped counting on both fronts. Easy 500 if I take the time I stare and think about what to do into account.

Weight wise I will find out today. That foothold stuff is pretty close to the last bit of glass. I have to grind out the nose and reinforce under the pole bracket left, but the current weight is close to final weight.