Super Jet Project Dance-floor

[Req]

@Sanoman 133 with a ride plate and ride plate bolts.

 

[Harbor]

@Sanoman 133 with a ride plate and ride plate bolts.

Including hood? Not bad, good surf ski exspecially with that wide tray to move around in

 

[Req]

Not including the hood unfortunately. It's about 10 lb if you don't include the extinguisher

 

[Sanoman]

Not bad on the weight!

 

[Req]

I went ahead and stitched the rear chop in with 9 ounce S glass. I'm not sure what I'm doing tomorrow but I may tackle under the pole bracket.

 

[Req]

I reinforced the pole bracket and nose area. I went a little Overkill but I figured of all the places this was one of the spots worth overdoing. I got two layers of 1708 increasing in size for the pole bracket area and the nose, and I have two strips of 17oz biax connecting the 1708 to the previous reinforcement.

It's about a pound and a half of material but worth it in my opinion.

 

[Req]

Once that started curing up I flipped the thing on its end and glued in the tubes on the firewall side. I used thickened G Flex in addition to a strip of fiberglass wet out with G Flex around the exhaust tube.

 

[Req]

I ground out the nose area and relayed glass. Hopefully this time it sticks. You can see the sections that just popped out once I ground the edge. Some bilge paint also showed up today so I'll be painting the bilge white before too long. This finishes the fiberglassing.

 

[Req]

I got the exhaust tube and Scupper tube glued-in with a bead of thickened G Flex as well as a strip of 6 oz cloth wetted out with G Flex. I ensured to Scuff the tubes thoroughly so the G Flex can do it's magic.

P.S. Gflex smells like dead fish.....

 

[Req]

Im debating back and forth on how I should cut these tubes. If I keep them perpendicular to the ground like they are and just match the pvc one to the metal one I can put a freeze plug in the one way tube externally if I want. If I cut it with the angle and close to the hull it would look better and be less prone to getting hit but I would only be able to put a freeze plug in from the engine bay side.

Any thoughts on what angle and how close I should cut the tubes?

 

[Downrange]

Mine are straight cut I think that they are symmetrical and would look good no matter what you do . Down the road if you want to dress them up with matching aluminum base rings flush to the hull it would be easier if you left yourself a inch or so to work with later. Don't overthink it, push on and get it in the water.

 

[Req]

Thanks @yamanube for the great deal on the AC racing - 2 handle Pole. I really like the way it goes with the lines and it looks better than I was expecting. I have it mocked-up with the bracket location I settled on. Also he sent me a set of porting templates and was nice enough to include a pole bolt too!

 

[yamanube]

That looks rad, I vote keep the pole painted the way it is.

 

[Req]

That looks rad, I vote keep the pole painted the way it is.

It works with the lines I got going, Im painting it plumb to match the ski however lol. Now I have to update the pole a bit and open up the lower area to accommodate the breather tube I am going to run, also I am fighting an upward angle on the bracket so a little bit of grinding on the lower face is in my future, im just not going to remove so much material the pole spring mount loses strength. Only reason I need to clearance it is the upward angle on the bracket, if it was flat like a round nose it would not need it. Also I am going to oval the upper hole and enlarge the lower drain holes and add two more at the upper section for a bit more breathing.

Red marker is the propsed changes.

 

[Quinc]

Looks heavy and long. Cut about 8 inches out of it and cut some designs out of the back of it to remove some weight.

 

[Req]

Looks heavy and long. Cut about 8 inches out of it and cut some designs out of the back of it to remove some weight.

That would put me right back to the old length haha... I have ovp steering going on it so it should be pretty good.

Edit: Made me look, its 12lbs with the chin pad and bushings haha. Not bad for what it is.

 

[Downrange]

In the first pic where you want to square off the rounded cut out I would not , square corners cause localized stress and cracks eventually. PM'ed you .

 

[Req]

If I did that I would drill a hole in the corners and cut to the radius.

 

[Req]

I threw the steering on and rolled the bars into the ovp position. I think this will work really good once I trim the chin pad and turf it.

 

[Req]

I was happy with the pole bracket area but not ecstatic with what the angle was presenting so I fixed it. I popped a mold out of an old tub that was the right size and cut the hole. It sits on the gas drain channel in the front and down a bit in the back for a lower profile. It fits nice and lowers the bracket a ton, lessens the angle, gives me more room and should be plenty beefy once I glass it in. Its 7 layers of 17 biax and 6 layers of 1708 so about a half inch thick on the bottom.

I poured resin in the top to let if self level.


Small squares are 1708 for the bottom and the big squares are 17biax draped down the sides as well.,

Took a couple of hours the other day and a couple hours today, honestly I spent more time stripping paint off the bottom today.


Turned out pretty good imo




Next I am going to glue it in with gflex (Edit: thickened epoxy with cabosil and glass strands) and then cabosil the gaps and put a few layers of biax on the bottom to stitch it in. Additionally I will do a couple layers of 6oz cloth on the outside seam.