Super Jet Roseand's simple SN build. Reinforcing, foam, engine rebuild, & all the good stuff.
- Thread starter Roseand
- Start date
School Section lake is in Dousman ~10 miles west of Delafield and ~10 miles south of Oconomowoc. I'm most likely less than 15 minutes from you. Is there a thread regarding the okauchee weekend? In my 5 years of owning standups I have yet to ride with another stand up rider that wasn't on my other skis.
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Ohh okay! Google maps says it's around 15 miles and about 25 minutes away, so not too far.
No there isn't but we've talked a little about it. Smart idea though, I'm gonna start a thread on it.
Really man? That sucks :/ But we can change that! There's not really any riders as serious as I am about skis that I've met so far on Okauchee yet either. At least no other x-h2oers and forum people except for @OkaucheeMustard. He's building an RN so he'll have a decent ski this year.
Got the whole engine bay nearly completely stripped. Motor mounts are the only thing that are left in theft in there now. Did some scrubbing with some simple green and it's starting to get somewhat clean now! Getting it all cleaned so I can grind the ribs & do some other glass work in there. Gotta patch a hole that the previous owner repaired with polyester resin as well.
I'm taking a break from the tray right now since I've got the hard part done. Now all I've gotta do is lay some layers of glass over the tray and install footholds. Pretty simple. Cleaned out my 61x cases a little bit today, and I pulled out all of my other engine parts out so I can get them ready to bring home, and I'm gonna set up a bench in my basement to rebuild it. Also gonna tear apart my carb and rebuild it completely.
Then it's just the little stuff, and it'll be ready to go! My goal is to have it done in 3 weeks. Senior year pretty much ends for me on May 14th, as my biggest project for a college writing class is due. Then it's pushing through all the easy classes..I won't have much of a workload then so I should be able to start riding and tuning!
I'm taking a break from the tray right now since I've got the hard part done. Now all I've gotta do is lay some layers of glass over the tray and install footholds. Pretty simple. Cleaned out my 61x cases a little bit today, and I pulled out all of my other engine parts out so I can get them ready to bring home, and I'm gonna set up a bench in my basement to rebuild it. Also gonna tear apart my carb and rebuild it completely.
Then it's just the little stuff, and it'll be ready to go! My goal is to have it done in 3 weeks. Senior year pretty much ends for me on May 14th, as my biggest project for a college writing class is due. Then it's pushing through all the easy classes..I won't have much of a workload then so I should be able to start riding and tuning!
Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
You hould have just layed up a layer of biax on the panels plus the thickened epoxy.
I'm gonna do that.. I couldn't do it all at once though. I needed the screws in there to hold them straight so they didn't flex, and now they're all tied together and dont flex much so they'll easily support the weight of some more biax over the top.
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Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
Ahh. With mine I used two layers of biax for my panels. And then I will use two layers to put then on
Are you gonna screw the panels on to hold them?
Yeah I should made mine out of two layers.. They wouldn't have flexed really much then.
I'm doing one layer of 1208,one layer of 1708,then a tightly woven cloth for the sides, and the tray will get 2-3 layers of 1208, 1-2 layers of 1708,and a layer of 8.9 twill s glass over everything. Might be overkill but Idk. It's part of a new tray.
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Schmidty721
someone turf my rails
- Location
- WI
Haven't visited this thread for a while.
In regards to the cooler temps and doing glass work... I did a whole bunch of work on my carbon project in less than ideal temps during the winter. Granted, I had a heated garage but I couldn't keep it at 70 degress for the whole curing time. What I found worked really well is to make sure the resin and the surface you're applying it to was nice and warm before starting and once everything was laid I tried to maintain 50 degrees and it cured pretty quicky. I would soak my resin bottles in the bath tub with the hottest water I could right up until the it was time to mix. Also worked under halogen work lamps directed onto the area I was applying material. This process of heating the resin and work area cut cure times in less than half.
Also, anytime you have a chance to lay up all the material in one shot, DO IT. Chemical bonds are way stronger than mechinical bonds if you let a layer cure, then sand, then lay on top. If you have an area that is tricky you can let the first layer reach "tack" point and then still lay directly on top of that and the resin will still bond with each other. It saved prep time and results in a stronger bond.
In your case, I would have just used some stainless rivets to hold everything in place and gone right over them with additional layers.
It's looking good tho man. Keep at it!
In regards to the cooler temps and doing glass work... I did a whole bunch of work on my carbon project in less than ideal temps during the winter. Granted, I had a heated garage but I couldn't keep it at 70 degress for the whole curing time. What I found worked really well is to make sure the resin and the surface you're applying it to was nice and warm before starting and once everything was laid I tried to maintain 50 degrees and it cured pretty quicky. I would soak my resin bottles in the bath tub with the hottest water I could right up until the it was time to mix. Also worked under halogen work lamps directed onto the area I was applying material. This process of heating the resin and work area cut cure times in less than half.
Also, anytime you have a chance to lay up all the material in one shot, DO IT. Chemical bonds are way stronger than mechinical bonds if you let a layer cure, then sand, then lay on top. If you have an area that is tricky you can let the first layer reach "tack" point and then still lay directly on top of that and the resin will still bond with each other. It saved prep time and results in a stronger bond.
In your case, I would have just used some stainless rivets to hold everything in place and gone right over them with additional layers.
It's looking good tho man. Keep at it!
Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
Im g9nna do what smitty said and use a few rivets. Like 3ish. And then I will up the tray and the side all at once yhen the footholds last because they are going to take a lot of persuasion
I'll probably put my resin in hot water next time, that should help. But it'll be getting warmer out hopefully when I'm glassing. I definitely am aware of chemical bonding with glass. That's what I've been planning on doing. I've noticed for very sharp curves an bends, a roller works wonders for tight places and getting biax to stay. Wouldn't a little thicker of resin help as well? I can always use wax paper and something else over the top to make it stay as well in tight spots. I'll only be able to do one side at a time though. I'll lay up one tray side one day, and repeat the next another day. For laying it all up at once, I'll wet out the biax on some cardboard to make it easier and then put it on the ski.
In terms of those panels, rivets wouldn't have worked out too well. I would have had to drill tons of holes and it would have been a PITA. Screws were much easier, and I could screw them in anywhere I needed to without drilling holes. With the screws and a drill, getting the panels completely adhered to the epoxy and metton was a lot easier.
The panels really aren't for structural purposes at all, and I left plenty of areas of bare metton for the new glass to adhere to. But yeah, when I lay the glass it will be multiple layers at once.
Thanks for the insight man!
@Dalton I see you seem to have a problem with biax & epoxy resin. In my experience, it always adheres excellent and I don't have trouble wetting it out. Wetting it out from the mat side first makes it a bit easier, especially if you have it on a piece of cardboard and wet it out with a squeegee, roller, and a brush for the edges. It's not bad. You have to get used to using it as it doesn't conform as easy as a cloth, but once you get the hang of it , it's some awesome stuff. I wouldn't say biax always is a struggle with air bubbles. A roller works wonders with it. Almost everybody here works with it, along with hull builders as well.
Biaxial fabric with mat is a great choice for building strength and thickness quickly. Is it the best choice for an epoxy laminate? In my opinion it is not. Using biaxial fabric without mat backing would result in a far stronger laminate. To achieve the same thickness without mat backing would require more layers but the end result would be better.
I'm not aware of anyone that builds hulls with mat but I'd be very interested to hear who does it.
Interesting to hear!
I'm saying that I'm pretty sure some hull builders use biax in parts of their skis.
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Biaxial for sure. It is the single best choice for strength and impact resistance in hulls. There is a much much broader range of available fabrics than what US Composites has to offer. Check out fgci.com and look for their biaxial fabrics without mat.
Edit: More specifically check out the double bias selection.
Ex: http://fgci.com/bp_viewproduct.aspx?itemnum=125628&oldItem=125628
Edit: More specifically check out the double bias selection.
Ex: http://fgci.com/bp_viewproduct.aspx?itemnum=125628&oldItem=125628
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Surprise.. Found some stress cracks/spider cracks . Not sure if I need to drill them out since it's not like I can flex that area. I'm gonna be reinforcing with 1708 biax anyways.
Here's a bad one, with inside and outside pics right at the bond line
Here's a minor one :
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Here's a bad one, with inside and outside pics right at the bond line
Here's a minor one :
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What do you guys think about those cracks?
Once I get my pressure washer fixed I'll be able to get it all cleaned up and then start with the glass work. Then it's the tray, and then it's time to assemble the engine and them the ski! Soon enough it's gonna be ride time
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Once I get my pressure washer fixed I'll be able to get it all cleaned up and then start with the glass work. Then it's the tray, and then it's time to assemble the engine and them the ski! Soon enough it's gonna be ride time
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- Location
- amarillo ,tx
How deep are they all the way through
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Joker
...chaos? Its Fair!
- Location
- La Porte, Indiana
Throw some biax on it and call it good.