TNT v2 free ride production pipe

Rc617

Rc617

I blow clouds, premix clouds
Location
Stockton ca
Captain WaterLogged said:
Will let you know how this runs this weekend... Bone stock 701 with ADA head, 34cc domes, 49 full spectrum, and a 155 mag pump.


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Just an FYI that vent check valve you are running on the tank fail a lot. I used to run them on my dirt bikes. I've had them vapor lock on me.
 
Captain PegLeg

Captain PegLeg

GJP
Location
Villa Rica, Ga
My review of a tnt v2 pipe: I currently have it installed with a bone stock unported 701 with 195psi, 61x/61x, single 49 full spectrum, zero flywheel, msd enhancer, and 155 mag pump.

I had a similar ski to compare it to, as dougs eme has my old motor which is exactly the same setup except 144 pump, lpw porting, and a bpipe. So dougs motor has had been bored and ported, everything else is identical.

1st initial water test was a very quick flat water spin in the intercoastal before dropping in the waves. After I got a few steering kinks worked out I changed the pipe, and carb adjustments each time out until I found out what worked best. I still think I can get more out of it sitting on the lake monitoring temps and plug readings, but for in and out of surf I feel like it was close.

Initial hit from the ported b pipe ski was a little better, but after the initial snap, the unported unbored 701 was superior in all ways. If you went up to a decent size wave, you could feel the b pipe sign off, while my tnt never stopped pulling! I never had a water ingestion issue no mater which way I reboarded, or when blowing out the ski after riding. The pipe was very easy to tune and change the power around as at first I felt it really "unclear" and loaded up, stared going down on the jet size until the rev felt clean, went down until I felt a loss of power, and went back to my prior jet. I did not run a flow control valve as I just drilled a small hole in the stinger. Never did water box get above 130ish.

Initial test I was very impressed and had zero issues out of the system. I will try to get it tuned a little better in the next weeks, but if my tpe 1025 is ready, I will be writing another review on the pipe with that setup!

Well done tim. Great exhaust system.
 
Waveblaster785

Waveblaster785

Location
Stevensville, MD
Captain WaterLogged said:
My review of a tnt v2 pipe: I currently have it installed with a bone stock unported 701 with 195psi, 61x/61x, single 49 full spectrum, zero flywheel, msd enhancer, and 155 mag pump.

I had a similar ski to compare it to, as dougs eme has my old motor which is exactly the same setup except 144 pump, lpw porting, and a bpipe. So dougs motor has had been bored and ported, everything else is identical.

1st initial water test was a very quick flat water spin in the intercoastal before dropping in the waves. After I got a few steering kinks worked out I changed the pipe, and carb adjustments each time out until I found out what worked best. I still think I can get more out of it sitting on the lake monitoring temps and plug readings, but for in and out of surf I feel like it was close.

Initial hit from the ported b pipe ski was a little better, but after the initial snap, the unported unbored 701 was superior in all ways. If you went up to a decent size wave, you could feel the b pipe sign off, while my tnt never stopped pulling! I never had a water ingestion issue no mater which way I reboarded, or when blowing out the ski after riding. The pipe was very easy to tune and change the power around as at first I felt it really "unclear" and loaded up, stared going down on the jet size until the rev felt clean, went down until I felt a loss of power, and went back to my prior jet. I did not run a flow control valve as I just drilled a small hole in the stinger. Never did water box get above 130ish.

Initial test I was very impressed and had zero issues out of the system. I will try to get it tuned a little better in the next weeks, but if my tpe 1025 is ready, I will be writing another review on the pipe with that setup!

Well done tim. Great exhaust system.
Click to expand...

Great combo with the TPE, very happy with my 1021 paired with the TNT.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
newbee

newbee

Idk I swear that wasn't there when I posted that lol. But I was reading from my phone so I most of skipped over it
 
Mcarp6

Mcarp6

Location
Southern New Jersey
newbee said:
Idk I swear that wasn't there when I posted that lol. But I was reading from my phone so I most of skipped over it
Click to expand...



Umm well I can give you my initial 02.

701 62T Msd Ada Head 35cc domes V force 2's , 38's , lightened flywheel. 148 torrent setback pump

I neglected to use the FCV and drilled a 5/32nd hole. 100 jet in the spray bar. Initial go ran well , but nothing to talk about. Power is Linear and hits very hard mid to top. Dropped it off to a buddy to see what he can do with the setup to see if he can get it running better than what my capability was. I will report back.


To be honest.... My buddies setup on a stock pump n hooker prop 61x w a powerfactor hits much harder than my setup. Same hull too...
 
tntsuperjet

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
148 pump on stock 62t Cyl gonna be tricky to get the prop right.
Pipe jet is critical.
100 sounds a bit small of a jet for your setup.
Where did you start jet wise ?
Without knowing where your timing is, squish, carb jetting, prop size, thrust nozzle size.
I can't help you much.
 
Mcarp6

Mcarp6

Location
Southern New Jersey
tntsuperjet said:
148 pump on stock 62t Cyl gonna be tricky to get the prop right.
Pipe jet is critical.
100 sounds a bit small of a jet for your setup.
Where did you start jet wise ?
Without knowing where your timing is, squish, carb jetting, prop size, thrust nozzle size.
I can't help you much.
Click to expand...


I would like to say I started with a 90 Jet I started with. It was loading up than clearing out. I than dropped to an 80 to eliminate a smaller jet. With the 80 it was worst. I than put a 100 jet and pulled out the low speed adjusters 1 turn. That was the best result I've gotten. I was under a time crunch and had to make the freeride event with little time to spare.

I've been told I am overpropped, however I did not feel like it was just spinning. I am no tuner , just a regular guy with an average sense of knowledge.
 
Waveblaster785

Waveblaster785

Location
Stevensville, MD
Mcarp6 said:
I would like to say I started with a 90 Jet I started with. It was loading up than clearing out. I than dropped to an 80 to eliminate a smaller jet. With the 80 it was worst. I than put a 100 jet and pulled out the low speed adjusters 1 turn. That was the best result I've gotten. I was under a time crunch and had to make the freeride event with little time to spare.

I've been told I am overpropped, however I did not feel like it was just spinning. I am no tuner , just a regular guy with an average sense of knowledge.
Click to expand...

Over propped would not mean you're spinning, it's the opposite. And based on what you said before its over propped.

Tim, you think 100 is small even in 48-55 degree water?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
tntsuperjet

tntsuperjet

Tntperformance-engineering.com
Location
Georgetown ca
The jet size will change slightly from fresh to salt but very minimal.

Here some tuning tips for V2/v3 pipe.
First off always start big with pipe jets, you can be to cold many times but to hot only once
115 is good starting starting jet.
Ignition timing is critical to pipe heat signature. The more timing you run the smaller the pipe jet will need to be. (Be carful not to run over 34 deg with v2-v3 they don't like it.
If you run a lot of static timing make sure you start pulling back before 5k RPM)
The v3 has really good bottom, so if your setup is soft on bottom you have a setup issue. To much prop, to small nozzle, bad squish angles, Carb jetting wacked
80 low and 130 high should be good jetting for v3 with stock 38's
130 low 125 high 46's
135-120 full spec 49's
130-130 dasa 48's
Novi, stay tuned still don't have a set
So when you start tuning.
115 jet in pipe if the boat feels soft on bottom try bigger thrust nozzle. If your low end improves you know your over propped. If the boat gets worse or spins the prop more you no your under propped.
If the bottom end feels good and it falls short in mid and top start reducing pipe jet till you feel the bottom get softer, then go back up one size.
Once you have the pipe temp set good now work on stinger water. Try adding water then try reducing water.
Typically speaking less stinger water will sharpen low end and cap the revs.
Adding water will reduce low end and increase revs, don't look for big gains or losses here as its the final straw to the fine tuning.
Squish clearance and angle is big part of my pipe.
81-84mm bore .045-.050 squish with 1.5 deg differential to piston dome.
84-88mm bore. .055-.065 squish at 1.8 deg differential.
88-95mm bore .065..070 squish at 1.2 deg differential
Don't exceed 30% of bore diameter on squish width with my pipe.

Steps to help. Check squish, install 115 pipe jet, get the carbs dialed in the best you can, as carb jetting will affect
Pipe temp huge. So carbs have to be dialed before you move to pipe.
Make sure your timing curve is good.
Stock ignition no more then 1.5 mm advanced. So now that we have carbs dialed in and the ignition and squish dialed in we can now start to effectively work on pipe temp tuning. Start reducing jet size in the pipe till you get max revs, when you go to small on jet you will loose bottom but gain no top.
So keep good eye on peak revs as you shrink the jetting on pipe.
Now that you have found max revs and shrunk jet till you lost bottom end go back up one size or till low end recovers and no loss of rpm.
You now have the pipe the best it can be.
Take temp reading of your water and the chamber make notes of this.
So as summer comes and water temps rise you will need to increase your pipe jet size to keep your tune.

If you dial the pipe temp before the carbs or timing you will change the pipe temp with jetting and you wil just start beating your head into the wall.
 
Last edited:
96superjet

96superjet

Location
Home of the Steelers!
tntsuperjet said:
The jet size will change slightly from fresh to salt but very minimal.

Here some tuning tips for V2/v3 pipe.
First off always start big with pipe jets, you can be to cold many times but to hot only once
115 is good starting starting jet.
Ignition timing is critical to pipe heat signature. The more timing you run the smaller the pipe jet will need to be. (Be carful not to run over 34 deg with v2-v3 they don't like it.
If you run a lot of static timing make sure you start pulling back before 5k RPM)
The v3 has really good bottom, so if your setup is soft on bottom you have a setup issue. To much prop, to small nozzle, bad squish angles, Carb jetting wacked
80 low and 130 high should be good jetting for v3 with stock 38's
130 low 125 high 46's
135-120 full spec 49's
130-130 dasa 48's
Novi, stay tuned still don't have a set
So when you start tuning.
115 jet in pipe if the boat feels soft on bottom try bigger thrust nozzle. If your low end improves you know your over propped. If the boat gets worse or spins the prop more you no your under propped.
If the bottom end feels good and it falls short in mid and top start reducing pipe jet till you feel the bottom get softer, then go back up one size.
Once you have the pipe temp set good now work on stinger water. Try adding water then try reducing water.
Typically speaking less stinger water will sharpen low end and cap the revs.
Adding water will reduce low end and increase revs, don't look for big gains or losses here as its the final straw to the fine tuning.
Squish clearance and angle is big part of my pipe.
81-84mm bore .045-.050 squish with 1.5 deg differential to piston dome.
84-88mm bore. .055-.065 squish at 1.8 deg differential.
88-95mm bore .065..070 squish at 1.2 deg differential
Don't exceed 30% of bore diameter on squish width with my pipe.

Steps to help. Check squish, install 115 pipe jet, get the carbs dialed in the best you can, as carb jetting will affect
Pipe temp huge. So carbs have to be dialed before you move to pipe.
Make sure your timing curve is good.
Stock ignition no more then 1.5 mm advanced. So now that we have carbs dialed in and the ignition and squish dialed in we can now start to effectively work on pipe temp tuning. Start reducing jet size in the pipe till you get max revs, when you go to small on jet you will loose bottom but gain no top.
So keep good eye on peak revs as you shrink the jetting on pipe.
Now that you have found max revs and shrunk jet till you lost bottom end go back up one size or till low end recovers and no loss of rpm.
You now have the pipe the best it can be.
Take temp reading of your water and the chamber make notes of this.
So as summer comes and water temps rise you will need to increase your pipe jet size to keep your tune.

If you dial the pipe temp before the carbs or timing you will change the pipe temp with jetting and you wil just start beating your head into the wall.
Click to expand...
 
jo5hi3

jo5hi3

Location
Charlotte NC
tntsuperjet said:
The jet size will change slightly from fresh to salt but very minimal.

Here some tuning tips for V2/v3 pipe.
First off always start big with pipe jets, you can be to cold many times but to hot only once
115 is good starting starting jet.
Ignition timing is critical to pipe heat signature. The more timing you run the smaller the pipe jet will need to be. (Be carful not to run over 34 deg with v2-v3 they don't like it.
If you run a lot of static timing make sure you start pulling back before 5k RPM)
The v3 has really good bottom, so if your setup is soft on bottom you have a setup issue. To much prop, to small nozzle, bad squish angles, Carb jetting wacked
80 low and 130 high should be good jetting for v3 with stock 38's
130 low 125 high 46's
135-120 full spec 49's
130-130 dasa 48's
Novi, stay tuned still don't have a set
So when you start tuning.
115 jet in pipe if the boat feels soft on bottom try bigger thrust nozzle. If your low end improves you know your over propped. If the boat gets worse or spins the prop more you no your under propped.
If the bottom end feels good and it falls short in mid and top start reducing pipe jet till you feel the bottom get softer, then go back up one size.
Once you have the pipe temp set good now work on stinger water. Try adding water then try reducing water.
Typically speaking less stinger water will sharpen low end and cap the revs.
Adding water will reduce low end and increase revs, don't look for big gains or losses here as its the final straw to the fine tuning.
Squish clearance and angle is big part of my pipe.
81-84mm bore .045-.050 squish with 1.5 deg differential to piston dome.
84-88mm bore. .055-.065 squish at 1.8 deg differential.
88-95mm bore .065..070 squish at 1.2 deg differential
Don't exceed 30% of bore diameter on squish width with my pipe.

Steps to help. Check squish, install 115 pipe jet, get the carbs dialed in the best you can, as carb jetting will affect
Pipe temp huge. So carbs have to be dialed before you move to pipe.
Make sure your timing curve is good.
Stock ignition no more then 1.5 mm advanced. So now that we have carbs dialed in and the ignition and squish dialed in we can now start to effectively work on pipe temp tuning. Start reducing jet size in the pipe till you get max revs, when you go to small on jet you will loose bottom but gain no top.
So keep good eye on peak revs as you shrink the jetting on pipe.
Now that you have found max revs and shrunk jet till you lost bottom end go back up one size or till low end recovers and no loss of rpm.
You now have the pipe the best it can be.
Take temp reading of your water and the chamber make notes of this.
So as summer comes and water temps rise you will need to increase your pipe jet size to keep your tune.

If you dial the pipe temp before the carbs or timing you will change the pipe temp with jetting and you wil just start beating your head into the wall.
Click to expand...


Such awesome info, some of us have learned all of that the hard way.
 
newbee

newbee

Priceless. That should save a lot of time. Hope to get that exhaust soon
 
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