Tuning dual 44's - couple of questions
- Thread starter Matt_E
- Start date
Turns out I got more work to do.:frown: .
Apparently the 115 pilot/110 main were border-line rich. The first tank I ran through the motor was a 1:24 mix for break-in.
Today I switched to 1:40, and it ran rich. It would load up, run rich from the bottom and up top.
After a turn sub, the engine would take a long time to clear out.
I guess I'll drop the mains down to 107.5 and the pilot to 112.5. Too bad I don't have those. :banghead:
Apparently the 115 pilot/110 main were border-line rich. The first tank I ran through the motor was a 1:24 mix for break-in.
Today I switched to 1:40, and it ran rich. It would load up, run rich from the bottom and up top.
After a turn sub, the engine would take a long time to clear out.
I guess I'll drop the mains down to 107.5 and the pilot to 112.5. Too bad I don't have those. :banghead:
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
You're getting awefully close to my 112.5 pilot 102.5 main . . . :biggrin:
Hurrrr....you know Wes, your porting should be VERY close to what I got, I have this hunch.
Very interesting indeed.
Yeah...I wrote about it in Geek's 44 thread - I found last year that there seems to be a pretty wide margin between noticably lean to noticably rich, with a narrow sweet spot in the middle.
So, while it ran good on 24:1 on 115P/110P, I am quite certain now that it'll go down quite a bit in jetting, near to what you have.
Very interesting indeed.
Yeah...I wrote about it in Geek's 44 thread - I found last year that there seems to be a pretty wide margin between noticably lean to noticably rich, with a narrow sweet spot in the middle.
So, while it ran good on 24:1 on 115P/110P, I am quite certain now that it'll go down quite a bit in jetting, near to what you have.
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
Before drilling out the return you might try it "undrilled" . . . once you drill them you can't undo it. When I pulled my plugs they looked a little rich and I think it's because the 70 jet offers less resistance than the 2 holes that are in the carbs. I've considered trying to buy a drill bit that is the same size as the stock return hole (super teeny weenie) and tapping the return hole when I drill it out, so that I could return it to "stock" if I wanted to.
I'm sure I'll never do it, but I always fret a little when I'm about to do something that can't be undone and may have negative repercussions.
Don't worry about the filled in intake/reed stuffers/kawi reed thing. The guy I got this idea from ran it on his "Team Scream" stroker with that set up and off of it on other motors and loved it both ways.
I'm sure I'll never do it, but I always fret a little when I'm about to do something that can't be undone and may have negative repercussions.
Don't worry about the filled in intake/reed stuffers/kawi reed thing. The guy I got this idea from ran it on his "Team Scream" stroker with that set up and off of it on other motors and loved it both ways.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
hey matt has your restrictor been drilled out in your carbs ??
- Location
- St Augustine, FL
Wes,
You can go back to the stock restiction in your return line. Just install a 60 main jet instead of your 70. And that should actually cause it to run a little richer.
You can go back to the stock restiction in your return line. Just install a 60 main jet instead of your 70. And that should actually cause it to run a little richer.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
i run a #60 on my carbs in the return line but thats only on novis and f/s
on the 44s i use the stock restrictor
on the 44s i use the stock restrictor
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
OK. So if 60 simulates stock that explains the rich condition. Knowing that a 60 will return it to stock makes me feel better about drilling these out.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
are you sure a 60 will make it stock
and why would you want to drill out a 44bn
there is no point
and why would you want to drill out a 44bn
there is no point
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
I don't know why the return is drilled out . . . seems it would be to lower the pressure in this particular case. If the pressure was lower, would that effictively change pop off? I mean the pop off would be the same, but the pressure necessary to pop it off would come later.
I'd like to know more about how all of this works, but I don't even know who to ask. When I get on the phone with an engine builder I don't want to waste their time so I don't always ask all the questions I want to.
When I spoke with Chuckie on the phone and took down my notes on this set-up he explained that "newer, high-performance" engines were using fuel injection, and that these were intended to simulate that to one degree or another. The doubled fingernail valves are intended to move more fuel through the lower circuit, or to wait to "turn on" the upper circuit.
I'm not necessarily dedicated to any one source . . . I just want something that hits, . . . and I want to ride. So R&D is fine in small doses, but I want to spend some time ripping it up as well. Plus I'm usually out there doing this by my self, and I feel less than competent, so I don't fiddle too long. I don't see the point because I don't have any "why" behind what I'm doing.
I need to go through this, in person, with someone that knows what's up and then I'll never forget. Until then I'll fumble my forward.
I'd like to know more about how all of this works, but I don't even know who to ask. When I get on the phone with an engine builder I don't want to waste their time so I don't always ask all the questions I want to.
When I spoke with Chuckie on the phone and took down my notes on this set-up he explained that "newer, high-performance" engines were using fuel injection, and that these were intended to simulate that to one degree or another. The doubled fingernail valves are intended to move more fuel through the lower circuit, or to wait to "turn on" the upper circuit.
I'm not necessarily dedicated to any one source . . . I just want something that hits, . . . and I want to ride. So R&D is fine in small doses, but I want to spend some time ripping it up as well. Plus I'm usually out there doing this by my self, and I feel less than competent, so I don't fiddle too long. I don't see the point because I don't have any "why" behind what I'm doing.
I need to go through this, in person, with someone that knows what's up and then I'll never forget. Until then I'll fumble my forward.
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
OK. I drilled out the returns and it runs much better - very snappy. I'm pleased. I turned out the top screws to 1 because 3/4 was a little lean. I find it very interesting - it was rich before with the stock return - now it's spot on!
wildman326
Who else?
- Location
- Kansas
70 main jet.
Mark44
Katie's Boss
- Location
- 100% one place
I am still messing with mine also, I have the ski running great and very snappy but just of 1/4 throttle. I have a hesitation that I have not got out yet. I believe my pilot may be too high or pop off be to low. As I noted before I raised my pop from 18 to 24 and that helped dramatically. I am going to raise the pop off again to see if that get the hesitation out. If that does the trick it will tell me the pilot may be too large so then I can go back and try the lower pilot and pop.
Mark44
Mark44