what am i supossed to do?

Theres nothing fishy about it. The pictures speak for themselves. The piston isnt going to melt on the opposite side as the exhaust. The only foreign object in there is the dowel pin for aligning rings and it smashed the hell out of it. Its still stuck in the piston.
 
heres what he wrote

this is what he wrote after first recieving the motor
******** YOU THAT MOTOR IS GARBAGE I WANT MY ********NG MONEY BACK IM GOING THROUGH PAYPAL!!! Just kidding. Im very happy with it so far. The pistons and walls seem very clean and smooth. It did have one broken stud and i dont know what those 2 bolts are with the cylinder but i figured you snapped some studs or something. Thats all fine and dandy as long as it holds. Im pleased and thanks so much. i got her to fire up for a few seconds but the bolts i have for the exhaust arent long enough so im going to need to get some tomorrow. A+++

pm #1
Ok SO we have a small problem here. That engine is messed up pretty bad. One hole seems to have snagged a ring and it wrecked the piston and cylinder wall. Its going to need a piston, rings and a bore. I put about 30mins on it when this happened. Im hoping your either willing to take the motor back or cover the costs to repair. I can get all parts for dealer pricing so it will onloy cost abouty 70 for pison and rings but bore is going to be 60ish for one hole. Please get back to me cause i dont want to have to try to go through paypal to get this handled.

pm#2 and what i worte

you know what i have no obligation to help you out....there are too many variables as to why the motor failed if it did at all..

was the gas mixed right?
were the carbs tuned right?
was it getting water?[/Q

Ok, Well absolutely yes it was getting water. Pouring out of the pisser. Yes carbs are tuned right because they came off a completely stock boat with stock jets. I checked the plugs after a few minutes of riding and they were a light brown. Perfect. The gas was mixed at 32:1 because the oil injection is removed for peace of mind.

The motor was setup properly as far as intake and exhaust and electrics. I just took the top end off and i see what happened. It snagged the top ring and it tore it apart. It rode on the cylinder wall and wore down the piston and melted part of it. The dowel in the piston to align the ring came lose after all that and smacked a bunch of marks in the cylinder head and the piston top. The cause was improper chamfering of the ports. They are not chamfered enough and some dont even look chamfered. You said that motor had 5 hours on it. It was clearly a ticking time bomb and it blew on me. Ive had that motor just over a week and the reason your hearing about it now is that like i told you i was going on vacation. I put the motor in tested it for 10 minutes locally and it seemed to be ok. I took it 700 miles to maryland on vacation put it in the water drove 1.2 way to the hosue we were renting at about 4k rpms and it started to bog so i went easier. It ran another 3 minutes and almost died and was running on one cylinder. I limped back to the shore and had to walk about a mile on the side of the shore back to the dock and walk back to the house we were renting from the dock for 2 hours in 95 degree weather to get my truck because i had gotten dropped off. This is not in any way my fault. Im trying to be good about this and just repair it and keep it. Ill fix the chamfering and put ti back together. I expect you to if not pay for all of this a very good portion of it. If you refuse to pay at all im going to go through paypal and send the motor back. This is not what i want to do at all but i dont want to spend an additional $150ish to repair a motor that i already spent 600 on.

pm #3

Everything about my end is perfect. The ports were not chamfered correctly. I can show you pictures that will explain everything you need to see. Ill post a thread on here asking what everyone thinks caused this and 100% will say snagged ring. I know motors as well so dont treat me like a novice. I told you i can get everything for cost im not trying to rip anyone off.

if it was a modded motor on set of stock carbs from a stock boat with stock jets then it seems that the boat had a serious case of detonation


not a rocket scientist but i have leaned out a motor or two before
 

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
mixing gas at 32:1 leans out the fuel/air mix too right?

and its hard to check plugs when you run for 2K for a few minutes, then 4K for a few minutes, as you said in an earlier post.
 

ToddW

Web GuY
Location
Folsom Lake - CA
IMHO it's up to seller if he decides to be nice to the buyer and pay for some of the repairs. He not us is the only one who really new the state of the engine before selling it to you.

If he's a good guy which it sounds like and is telling the truth then if I were him I wouldn't pay because he sold a working engine and thinks you messed it up.

Now, on the other hand you think he sold you a bad engine and want him to repair it... you see no one wins. If he gives you 50% then he's agreeing to have sold you a bad engine.

It's a tricky situation but as a buyer I don't think you can demand something from a seller of a used part or even act like they owe you.

Last summer my father sold a Sea Doo the buyer tested it on the water for a while was happy and bought it the next day. All the while my father said it seemed to be running slower than normal but the buyer insisted it was fast enough for him and still wanted it. Well, a week later the buyer calls it wont run well anymore and my father chips down $250 or so (i forget but was well over 200) to help pay for a carb rebuild or whatever he was told it needed. Now, if it were me I would have said to bad you bought it that way I warned you I was going to fix but you wanted anyway. Some people may call me a bad seller for that ??? It really depends on the situation, and really only the buyer and seller know the full details. Oh, and guess what, a week later the guy had re-posted the sea-doo for sale anyway, it was now "to fast" for him and he sold it for more than my father sold it for.

(I'm not bashing reselling and making money here, but the fact that it was bad that he came back to my father to get $ to fix it then turned around and made a profit on it.)
 
the carbs were tuned right. the plugs were a light brown. the motor wasnt moded. He said the ports were "cleaned up". it snagged a ring from poor chamfering however you want to spin it. It wasnt detonation lol.
 

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
The ports are barely chamfered and some dont look touched. That is what happened plain and simple. THe other side cylinder needs to be chamfered as well.

I agree. There is very little to absolutely no chamfer on any of those ports.
It looks as if it was bored and someone didn't chamfer it - what little there is, is residual chamfer from the previous bore.

This is what I am seeing on those ports - I don't know if that's what cause damage
 
Last edited:

Mouthfulloflake

ISJWTA member #2
Location
NW Arkansas
50:1 is typical in a water craft.

IN fact your 750ss there, with its factory oil injection goes anywhere from 32:1-200:1 depending on engine RPM.

also, I wasnt talking about the fuel to oil ratio.

I was talking the fuel to AIR ratio.

32:1 premix thru a given jet into an engine, is LEANER ( fuel to air) than

50:1 premix thru the same jet/engine.

the oil takes the place of the fuel in the fuel to air ratio.

there are a bunch of dumbasses on this site!

:biggrin:

32:1 means 32 parts gas to 1 part oil.
100:1 means 100 parts gas to 1 part oil.

100:1 means boom, 32:1 is typical.
 

DangerBoy

Runs with scissors
Site Supporter
Location
Rincon Beach
OK folks, that is what a piston and cylinder look like from the effects of Detonation. the ring colapsing and and catching the port was a side effect (in this case) as a hole was burned thru the piston,

also the exhaust port on that cylinder has NOT been widened, as such very little port chamfer is required (although I prefer more)

this motor failed in my opinion from detonation, could have been lean on the carbs, air leak , too low an octane fuel, old fuel ect.

Db
 
W

wydopen

Guest
the carbs were tuned right. the plugs were a light brown. the motor wasnt moded. He said the ports were "cleaned up". it snagged a ring from poor chamfering however you want to spin it. It wasnt detonation lol.

how do you know if the carbs were tuned right when you rode it at 2k for a few min?
 
It was not detonation. If you had this sitting in your hand youd see that too. I didnt say i only rode at 2k rpms. I started with that. the engine had the proper mixture of fuel to air, oil to gas, proper octane. I was running 93 in it with 167ish psi. I think its clear that it snagged a ring ran on teh cylinder wall for a lil while, Melted itself, snagged teh dowel pin, ripped a chunk out, wore alil more and then was done. No detonation. The top of the piston is nto melted. It is restricted to that area.
 
does riding at 2k rpms for 2 minutes tell you anything by looking at the plugs. I wouldn't think you could get a good read without going all the way through the rpm range to get low and high speed jet performance. Just a question here for my personal knowledge bank.
 
going slow will give you an idea about the low speed jets, You need to take more into account like hesitation and loading up and such. Going at 4-6k will give you an idea of the high speed jets. I wouldnt go past 6k after putting a motor together for atleast an hour.
 
Top Bottom