Freestyle Xscream 865 Reminder to change wrist-pin bearings every 50 hours!!

Location
Australia
welding, and hours on the dremmel finally got me this far!
 

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The next thing you should do is put them on a surface plate and check for warpage. If they are slightly warped then when you bolt them up they will be stressed and will crack when you run them with a high performance engine. Not meaning to be a downer but you have to weigh the options. Is it worth blowing the engine again for a few hundred dollars (AUS)? Nice work but check them first.
 

SUPERTUNE

Race Gas Rules
Location
Clearwater Fl.
Why don't they use cageless bearings like in skidoo sled motors?

For those who want to bullet proof any of their SS865's or XS1000's use this bearing:
Seadoo needle bearing part # 290-832-552.
It is cageless, so you just have to be more careful with the installation.
 
The next thing you should do is put them on a surface plate and check for warpage. If they are slightly warped then when you bolt them up they will be stressed and will crack when you run them with a high performance engine. Not meaning to be a downer but you have to weigh the options. Is it worth blowing the engine again for a few hundred dollars (AUS)? Nice work but check them first.

Been there, done that.... Warps under heat, no proper seal either.

A sheet of glass should be able to confirm?
 
The welding has destroyed the integrety of any of the epoxy close to the weld. If you want to remove epoxy you can do it with heat, the heat that was applied when welding was way over the few hundred degrees that this epoxy can handle.
You will need to grind out any epoxy close to the weld, especially if it has changed colour, & replace it with new epoxy, otherwise the damaged epoxy can/will release from the alloy surfaces & either leak or bits can break away & fall into your motor.
Like was suggested in some of the other posts, you have to ensure the case surface has not distorted. Puting sealant on the base gasket is just a bandaid, so check that it is flat. If not too bad you may have to take a slight skim with the mill, but just to clean up, any thickness you take off will effect your deck height, squish, compression & port timing.
 

waterfreak

I had a vision!
Site Supporter
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Location
s florida
definetly remove the epoxy in that area. I would also go as far as grinding some of the epoxy every were else and re-filling the areas till it over flows a little and then flat mill/clean up to to get a perfect flat surface. This will assure that you have a perfect surface area to seal the base gasket and avoid any potential issues.
 
This thread could be as much of a reminder not to use pump gas in a race gas motor . Not saying thats absolutly what happened here , but detonation will destroy bearings in short order .
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Well I joined the club today. 1 full season on the motor. Brand NEW OEM crank when it was built.

Wrist pin bearings gave out. I said a couple weeks ago I was going to tear down and inspect but I just started riding instead. Damn!!!
 

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Well I joined the club today. 1 full season on the motor. Brand NEW OEM crank when it was built.

Wrist pin bearings gave out. I said a couple weeks ago I was going to tear down and inspect but I just started riding instead. Damn!!!

oh that sucks dude ! n you have that feeling it was time too...
 

BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
it hurts. Nothing to do now but rebuild. Crying about it isnt going to fix it lol.

Oh well time to go make the little 61X/61X turd motor I have in the fixed steer cry tomorrow. I'm only into that motor for $100 Hope It blows too, maybe I'll quit jet skiing.
 
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