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A rubber mallet sounds like a smart idea. Thanks.

Somehow is right. I just looked at a couple of other threads and found 3 different ways to do it. Each one had someone complaining that it was bad to do it that way in some capacity. I might heat it up later tonight and see what I can get out of it. Thanks for the advice guys. I'll post up later...

I was looking at that today bit I can't figure out how it would come apart. Does it screw in through the center of it or is there a trick to getting the coupler off?

Well I'm definitely going to replace it then. How difficult is it to disassemble the crankshaft to change it? Is it just a slide out system or does it take some type of special tools to take it all apart to get to those two seals?

It worked. I had to hit it with a hammer for a bit but it eventually came off nice and smoothly. Thanks for the advice. The reason we were taking it off was to see why the sealer ring popped out of its alignment groove in the case. It's back in place now, but how does this cut look to you guys...

I use a tri suit all the time. It's a little slick and the legs go a little long on it but I just roll them up. Overall it works great.

Doubt you damaged the crank. Make sure the flywheel puller's center bolt is not so big that it pulls against the flywheel instead of the crank snout. Used a 12m socket as a spacer, read up online - CHECK Once that's sorted out, make sure that the three outer bolts on the puller are not...

Working on getting my buddy's lower end off of his 701. We thought we had it down path and didn't realize the stator has a bolt in it that holds the bottom crank case cover to the block. We took the inital bottom bolts off and flywheel cover off and started to try and pull the cover off. After a...

Hahaha

Great, thanks for all of the replies guys. I'll be sure to post up the results after having them made.

I know, right? The problem is that there was antifreeze sitting filled to the top in the cylinder cooling walls the entire winter. It looks pretty nasty in there after I drained it out, corroded etc. Not looking forward to cleaning that up. I honestly don't even know where to start.

The water on the piston heads are from when I took the head off - some of the water (well, antifreeze) dripped onto them. There wasn't any water in cylinders.

Took my ski out of storage and started to tear down the head to make sure everything was good for the summer. Here are a couple of pictures (note the red stuff is antifreeze that didn't blow out, my own fault but now I know to blow it out completely): Initial thoughts on these pictures...

Cool, thanks for the recommendation.

Hey guys, Does anyone know of anyone on this site that does custom decal work? Looking to create some large decals to dress up a few skis with to support my new business. I did a quick search and didn't see anything. Thanks in advance. - JT

That's what my old ski's ebox looked like. Fkn sucks cleaning that stuff up.

When I first bought the ski it was basically in pieces. The guy told me that the waterbox needed to be replaced, but I looked at it and all I could see that it needed was a few rivets because some had broken out. Riveted it up and put it in. Like I said, it ran great now this so I am thinking...

Also, just to note - when I hammer the throttle it bogs like crazy. But if I ease into it I can get it to run full out (or at least close to). That and it sounds a bit more bubbly. I have the temp sensor disconnected as well since I'm running an ADA head. The wire for that is just loose and...

I mean, if there is water in the Ebox is it more subject to run like crap or not run at all?

I hear you, I'm just stumped. I had it dialed in perfectly. Then out of the blue it runs like :-):-):-):-), and water in the Ebox is what I found. I'll be sticking with the bored 701 for a while, just want it as tightly built as possible. I don't know how I could be getting water in the carbs...