If that MAP sensor ever gets wet, the moisture can affect how the device reports pressure levels by not recognizing the appropriate changes within the intake manifold.
I believe you may be correct from the pictures you just posted that the nozzle may be too thin for any machining at the base mounting. Also that reduction appears to be real thin at the end with the larger diameter ring installed so not sure there would be any room to make it any bigger. I...
The pump intake tract is sitting lower because whole engine & driveline assembly appears to be angled down a few degrees. You can see in the pic that the front engine mounting points have been raised up slightly and the bulkhead is slanted backwards. This setup would probably work well with the...
Those hulls will work with pumps 140mm to 160mm in diameter and they even angle the engine & pump downward to help with stuffing the pump immediately after splashdown.
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If you need to replace the round electrical contact pins inside the switch I would contact John at JSS.
If you need the Sumitomo HM pins inside the electrical connectors they can be purchased here...
Some PWC engine remanufacturer had a video of the crank truing a while ago and it revealed a special hand operated tool that was placed between the crank webs to properly phase them before welding the pins instead of using the brass hammer method for a making slight adjustments. If you don't...
The pick-up coils and stator have the same resistance values but obviously the wires are shorter on the 1100-63M. Other than the 1200-65U pick-up coils having a black plastic housing they should bolt up and work fine if you shorten the wires. The ignition coils have a different turn ratio on the...
The wall thickness is about the same as the brass type fitting and I'm sure you could locate a push-in or screw-in type jet with the correct diameters similar to these.
These push-in Weber air corrector jets come in sizes 1.00mm through 2.50 in 0.05mm increments and could be drilled to larger...
You could use an aluminum hose to hose barb fitting and tap or drill the end to accept a restrictor of some type. McMaster sells them in many sizes and a variety of anodized colors. I've used them with the straight and T type fittings tapped on one end for use with a Mikuni main jet for fuel...
Personally I just use a piece of 3/8-inch OD black nylon rod cut in one inch lengths with some holes drilled through the center section in various sizes and install them inside the cooling hose right before the bypass fittings.
Jet-Works sells the quick disconnect type of restrictors with brass inserts and the inline needle valve type with the adjustment knob, not just the flow control valves.
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