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I've been gone a while. I didn't know about this. He was a very nice guy.

Poly can be made to work but its never optimum. Poly is ok for making new parts on a budget. Poly is not good for seconday bonds. Sometimes ot holds, sometimes it doesn't. Even with proper prep. I wouldn't use poly resin on any project that matters.

A good example of why we say use epoxy is this. I rebuilt my SN and it had a few major repairs made with poly. ten minutes with a screwdriver and all of the poly repairs had been removed. The poly resin peeled off the hull in sheets. Poly just doesn't bond well.

Unless you want it to come apart fairly easy, don't use kitty hair or bondo of any polyester resin product on your watercraft. When I rebuilt my SN, somebody had made several major repairs to the hell using polyester resin. using a scraper and hammer, I was able to peel most of the patches out...

Mix micro balloons with epoxy until thick like peanut butter as a body filler. Regular bondo will fall out. The balloons thicken, make it easier to sand, and reduce weight of the resin.

For paint, epoxy primer will help with making the paint stick. Then I've had good luck with automotive single-stage urethane paint. It's catalized so fuel spills won't make it peel. Base Clear is nice but single-stage seems tougher.

I've been using fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to fix SMC for years. I've never had a repair fail. Though I have broken out bad repairs done with polyester resin a few times and redone them with epoxy. It's crazy how easy you can peel polyester repairs off a SMC hull. If you have a West...

I also used couch mounts in my SN and the engine lined up perfectly with no modifications and no shims needed.

Also, I know a lot of people re-use intake and carb gaskets sometimes. Make sure those are in good shape as well since those leaking will cause lean issues too. What seems strange is not seeing fuel at/past half throttle when looking into the carb throat. Having changed the carbs and fuel/pulse...

Possibly lean on the top? have you tried opening the high screws more? I Had a ski two years ago that had a similar issue. Ran great on the trailer but would bog horribly around half throttle and up in the water. My friend kept telling me it was lean but I had a hard time convincing myself since...

Should be doable if you check squish clearance and it's within spec. With an aftermarket head squish will probably be too tight. It MIGHT be ok with a stock head.

Just looked at link. Some good info... They made a big deal about secondary bonding. We all know to use epoxy on secondary bonds. Many of their downsides to vinylester were in this area. When a part is made with vinylester those bonding concerns are moot. That page was a sales pitch page. And...

This is old but just saw the reply to my post. I'm aware of the differences between epoxy and vinylester resins. And I will still y that vinylester is a very good choice for hull construction. Most people don't even know that vinylester resin is basically epoxy solids in a styrene suspension...

I discussed the solder vs crimping cable lugs with several of the engineers at work. Not a single one thought solder was better for my (our) application. I really was hoping they would say solder was as good or better than crimping. So now when I need a cable I have to call a guy from work that...

All I've looked at have the tinned lugs and a proper crimp. Never seen any that are soldered. A proper crimp could almost be mistaken for a soldered connection. An oem style crimp crimps around 360 degrees of the lug compressing it with very high pressure almost fusing the lug to the wire. The...

I've had good luck with the yellow oregon brand tygon type line. They reformulated somewhat recently and its said to tolerate up to 25% ehtanol now. I've used this line for several years and still have some that's pliable from 5-6 years ago. I've only seen it in yellow though. I get mine from a...

I forgot to mention that you should clean the gaps between the commutator contacts with something like a toothpick to make sure debris isn't shorting them together. If the commutator contacts are badly burned from over-worn brushes (low spring tension) you can chuck the armature in a drill...

Id have to agree that soldered would be better for a person only making a few cables. My experience with this comes from what I've seen at work. There are some lugs spec'd for soldered lugs and others with certified crimped lugs. The soldered are used mostly in low strain and vibration...

Its relatively easy to give your starter a checkup/tuneup. Mark the starter where the starter body and end caps meet. A line drawn with a paint pen works nicely. Draw a line from body to end caps on both ends. Hope that's easy enough to understand. It helps with indexing everything when...

Corrosion will move up a battery cable from the connectors. Making sure the ends are sealed is important. If you can see the conductor in a wire and it has a dark brownish look to it, resistance is going to be higher and the cables willl get hot. They can get hot enough to melt the conductor or...