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If you have compression and fuel, the only thing left is spark. Have you verified spark with the plug grounded to the motor?

They have 3 rollers that grip the stud. If they are on a threaded spot on the stud it will flatten them if a whole lot of torque is required.

I'll also throw in my absolte love affair with Aircat tools. I have a 6" D/A and mini die grinder so far. Tool quality is outstanding, they are super QUIET, and best of all, they are affordable. I'd recommend any of their tools at this point. https://aircat.com/

This stud puller set has been worth it's weight in gold for Kawasaki motor rebuilds and anything that uses studs...

I made this a while ago as an example of a bad leak: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBb-xH6j7uY/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

For safety I'd run another test for 10 minutes. Use soapy water in spray bottle to double check for leaks. However, 2 psi over 40 minutes is most likely passing at 10 minutes!

On most of the Kawi motors I've built, the stud holes on the intake manifold as well as the reed to manifold and case to reed area leak profusely. Adding 1211 around the base of the studs and on both sides of the gaskets then results in no discernable PSI loss over a 10 minute test. How much...

Send it!

Did you remember to put your woodruf key back in when you put the flywheel back on? Or, are you sure the key is intact and not broken? I've seen motors that would start and idle just fine with a broken key, but the second you try and give any throttle they run like crap.

That's the beautiful thing about composite reeds. Generally, they don't do any noticable damage when they go through the motor. Stock metal reeds on the other hand will tear up a ring or bore wall. If you're worried, pull the cylinder and inspect thoroughly, but I doubt you will find anything...

Clean everything thoroughly - Case halves, scrape all gasket/sealant residue off with a razor and scotch bright pad (BY HAND! - No power tools with scotch bright). Acetone all surfaces prior to reassembly. Chase all of your threaded holes/bolts with a tap/die. This makes assembly easier and...

Hahahahhahahahah!!!! That license plate!!!!!

I second Mikidymac. The main needle diaphragm is behind that cover and in conjunction with the needle, seat, and spring, controls your pop-off pressure. Pop-off has authority over your off-idle throttle response and when it is out of whack, the ski acts exaclty as you describe. Rebuild your...

This may sound stupid, but verify that the diaphragm button is not pushing the needle arm down when the square cover is screwed on.

I'll take a Yamaha product over a BRP product any day of the week...

It's a core XY on linear rails. Super rigid frame, great extruder, extremely stable with super fast print speeds.

I keep toying with the idea of building a Voron 2.4 https://vorondesign.com/voron2.4

Bump.

My old shop stand was killing my back, so I made a new one. Should be much more ergonomic to work with and I have storage under the ski now. Sanded down the glass to lay some more. The 8.9oz twill didn't want to lay down on the tight bends above and behind the footwells. I ended up with...