C.A.T.S. - Cheap Arse Trim System - post yours!

parrdaddy

No he will not!
i'm sorry, its not funny. you guys are both right. blaise pascal is the one who's wrong.

Ah, I see where the confusion is now. Pascal's Principal is great, and applies here, BUT what Darin is saying is that if you increase output force while maintaining a constant input force, then you must give up some amount of efficiency (read that as cable travel at the nozzle) depending on how much you increase the mechanical advantage. Is that where we disagree?

That's why I compared it to a lever, or it could also be compared to the pulley on the Wammer trim. You can not get more force out than you put in without changing your cable travel on one end or the other.

Am I way off here, or is that why we're all confused :smile:
 
Location
Mahopac, NY
I have a hydraulic trim system. It was off of one of Eric Malone's superjets. Back when he used superjets. It used a Magura lever and perch With a SJ steering cable. If anybody wants some pics I can get them over the weekend.
 

SUPERJET-113

GASKETS FOR CHAMP BRAP!
Site Supporter
I have a hydraulic trim system. It was off of one of Eric Malone's superjets. Back when he used superjets. It used a Magura lever and perch With a SJ steering cable. If anybody wants some pics I can get them over the weekend.

Tha Sato Enginering trim system uses a steering cable type like that also. It can pull more of a load easier and not tweak on the cable like the CATS type cables.
 
I have a hydraulic trim system. It was off of one of Eric Malone's superjets. Back when he used superjets. It used a Magura lever and perch With a SJ steering cable. If anybody wants some pics I can get them over the weekend.

im kinda wondering what the cable is doing. ive only seen the baker and the r&d setup and neither use a cable
 
you can buy easy pull levers at your local motocross dealer. I work at the parts counter at a yami, suzuki, honda, bombardier, and artic cat dealership. They make a million kinds of levers and you can get some that will sacrifice length of pull for increased force. if you mount it differently at the bottom end it will work just fine. You could piece together a hydraulic system off an mx bike or something pretty easy too. It wouldnt be very hard to pull so grease your cable up. Depending on what kind of cable your using they can rust in the sheath. A well greased cable pulls 100x easier then a botched one. I just pieced together a CATS system with brand new parts for under 50 bux. Its super easy.
 
Sure, Ill elaborate. It cost me 50 bux lol. I work at a yamama dealership like i said. You suckers paying retail for parts are getting ripped off. I get cost plus 10% so the steering nozzle, trim plate piece, all new bolts and washers were cheap. Im going to find a long enough cable and itll only be 15ish so itll end up around 50 bux. All i need to due is run the cable and weld on some bungs and bam alil elbow grease and Ive got a CATS.The steering nozzle was most expensive part at like 17 dollars. Get a hook up at a yami dealer and your stuff is dirt cheap. Im doing a total overhaul on teh ski i plan to show on here aslong as i remember to take pictures. Its in about 1000 pieces right now.
 
I just redone my protec setup. I moved the pivot holes back 20 mm and up 4 mm. Moving the pivot point up gives the trim ring more room to move before it hits the reduction nozzle. Right now before tweeking with a grinder a tad bit i have 31 degrees of up tilt. So I don't see 34 or maybe 35 degrees out of the question. I might just leave it as it is because of the longer steering nozzle I need to trim the rear of the ski off to almost the eyelet in the tray.

I didn't weld new bosses I just welded a huge pile of metal on there and the ground it off smooth with the old bosses. I taped that and WOW I was at 14 or 15 degrees of trim so this will be so different... well the new 5mm stroker is kinda different also so I am in for a treat.

I will post more pictures when I put it together.
 

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justride

Guest
by moving the ring back, will this have any effect on the steering cable?
 

sjetrider

615 Freeriders are addicted to T1 madness.
Sure, Ill elaborate. It cost me 50 bux lol. I work at a yamama dealership like i said. You suckers paying retail for parts are getting ripped off. I get cost plus 10% so the steering nozzle, trim plate piece, all new bolts and washers were cheap. Im going to find a long enough cable and itll only be 15ish so itll end up around 50 bux. All i need to due is run the cable and weld on some bungs and bam alil elbow grease and Ive got a CATS.The steering nozzle was most expensive part at like 17 dollars. Get a hook up at a yami dealer and your stuff is dirt cheap. Im doing a total overhaul on teh ski i plan to show on here aslong as i remember to take pictures. Its in about 1000 pieces right now.

Yeah, you gonna share the love bro?????
 
J

justride

Guest
I just redone my protec setup. I moved the pivot holes back 20 mm and up 4 mm. Moving the pivot point up gives the trim ring more room to move before it hits the reduction nozzle. Right now before tweeking with a grinder a tad bit i have 31 degrees of up tilt. So I don't see 34 or maybe 35 degrees out of the question. I might just leave it as it is because of the longer steering nozzle I need to trim the rear of the ski off to almost the eyelet in the tray.

I didn't weld new bosses I just welded a huge pile of metal on there and the ground it off smooth with the old bosses. I taped that and WOW I was at 14 or 15 degrees of trim so this will be so different... well the new 5mm stroker is kinda different also so I am in for a treat.

I will post more pictures when I put it together.

can you show a pix on how and what you used to support the end of the cable housing.. THANKS
 
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