waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
I dont know the answer to that, in regard to what sort of rev lmiter is best. I just set it at 500 more rpm than I would normally see
DIY Total loss or MSD TL upgrade box 270USD?
- Thread starter Christian_83
- Start date
- Location
- michigan
Is it just me or are any of you guys having a hard time getting the dummy grommets to fill the crank case? I’ve been told the grommets are on national back order?
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
I use old stator plugs and fill the holes with sicaflex
- Location
- michigan
Same here (for now). Crazy power the Zeel has on me. I felt no shame what so ever sacrificing a 62t stator to get the grommet!!!!
MarkWalker
Site Supporter
- Location
- Buffalo NY
Did you try Jetmaniac? Got mine there.
Jcary85
Site Supporter
- Location
- Glenmoore pa
What plug gaps are people running with the zeeltronic? I’m embarrassed to say I’ve just been running them as they come out of the box. Wondering if some gap adjustment might be beneficial.
- Location
- Riverside, CA
Wax,
Is there a reason why the PDCIS-02T isn't equipped with a tachometer lead?
Bill M.
Is there a reason why the PDCIS-02T isn't equipped with a tachometer lead?
Bill M.
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Yup because if you did that then you would be exposing part of the circuit to water. Why would you want to do that. Its easier to simply use an inductive tacho on it.
Most of the skis these go into are in a free-ride and freestyle situation, I cant think of anything worse than having a gray wire waiting to go green.
- Location
- Riverside, CA
It would be dumb to leave an unused wire (any wire) exposed on a motorcycle,
car, or a watercraft.
MSD provides a tachometer output, and the MSD is too large to fit inside an
electrical box (like the PDCIS-02T will). The MSD tach wire provides a short 12v
PWM signal, so it is basically a hot wire. Why would anyone leave a hot wire
exposed to accidentally ground out or turn green.
On our MSD, I folded the end over and sealed the wire inside some heat shrink.
The same solution could be used for an optional water injection solenoid.
Or a water injection solenoid could be controlled by the tachometer wire.
Most people, IMO, don't know the difference between using an hour-meter
as a tachometer versus an expensive tachometer for testing. Wax, you must
admit the PDCIS-02T has many more applications than a freestyle watercraft.
The tach wire provides a simple interface to any Arm, AVR (Arduino), or Pic,
even a Parallax Propeller. All that is required is a high Kohm series resistor,
possibly a 20 to 100k resistor connected to a capture input interrupt pin or
counter function on the Propeller (because there are no interrupts).
For less than $20 on Ebay, anyone could build a better Arduino based tachometer
than an hour meter. The tachometer display could be as large and easy to see,
as you want. It could have the ability to recall the rpm after the ride, and collect
acceleration, and peak rpm data.
I would share any tachometer code and circuits with everyone on X-H20 and
PWCtoday.
The downside of homemade inductive, or capacitive pick-up tachometers
is the spark doesn't just fire a +20 Kv spark and stop. The spark continues
to oscillate up and down for approximately 3 milliseconds. Most capacitive
tachometer circuits will accurately measure the initial HV spark, but because
theses circuits do not have anyway to filter out the bounce (oscillations) after
the initial spark, these circuits have false triggers caused by the 3ms bounce,
and prevent the micro-controller from accurately calculating the rpm.
A capacitive or inductive tachometer circuit needs a filter circuit to mask
the 3ms bounce. Typically 3 to 4 nand gates and a few capacitors are used
to smooth out the data, But this filter circuit is above my skill level.
That is why, I prefer a tachometer output, and a simple series resistor to
read the rpm signal data. It is a simple project that would be easy to copy.
Bill M.
car, or a watercraft.
MSD provides a tachometer output, and the MSD is too large to fit inside an
electrical box (like the PDCIS-02T will). The MSD tach wire provides a short 12v
PWM signal, so it is basically a hot wire. Why would anyone leave a hot wire
exposed to accidentally ground out or turn green.
On our MSD, I folded the end over and sealed the wire inside some heat shrink.
The same solution could be used for an optional water injection solenoid.
Or a water injection solenoid could be controlled by the tachometer wire.
Most people, IMO, don't know the difference between using an hour-meter
as a tachometer versus an expensive tachometer for testing. Wax, you must
admit the PDCIS-02T has many more applications than a freestyle watercraft.
The tach wire provides a simple interface to any Arm, AVR (Arduino), or Pic,
even a Parallax Propeller. All that is required is a high Kohm series resistor,
possibly a 20 to 100k resistor connected to a capture input interrupt pin or
counter function on the Propeller (because there are no interrupts).
For less than $20 on Ebay, anyone could build a better Arduino based tachometer
than an hour meter. The tachometer display could be as large and easy to see,
as you want. It could have the ability to recall the rpm after the ride, and collect
acceleration, and peak rpm data.
I would share any tachometer code and circuits with everyone on X-H20 and
PWCtoday.
The downside of homemade inductive, or capacitive pick-up tachometers
is the spark doesn't just fire a +20 Kv spark and stop. The spark continues
to oscillate up and down for approximately 3 milliseconds. Most capacitive
tachometer circuits will accurately measure the initial HV spark, but because
theses circuits do not have anyway to filter out the bounce (oscillations) after
the initial spark, these circuits have false triggers caused by the 3ms bounce,
and prevent the micro-controller from accurately calculating the rpm.
A capacitive or inductive tachometer circuit needs a filter circuit to mask
the 3ms bounce. Typically 3 to 4 nand gates and a few capacitors are used
to smooth out the data, But this filter circuit is above my skill level.
That is why, I prefer a tachometer output, and a simple series resistor to
read the rpm signal data. It is a simple project that would be easy to copy.
Bill M.
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waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
I use a pet inductive tacho, it works awesome but each to thrir own.
Zeeltronic does make a cdi that has power valve out puts as well as power jet controller. I was using them to turn on fuel pumps and bilge pumps in my belassi with my gp1200 enigne in it and it worked awesome
I agree its can do much more than free-ride im using it in my race superjet. But its not that competitive as a hull anymore as I have to go up against 1100 sxr and 1500 sxr. so it gets cleaned up pretty badly. I also use one in my 550 race boat.
Zeeltronic does make a cdi that has power valve out puts as well as power jet controller. I was using them to turn on fuel pumps and bilge pumps in my belassi with my gp1200 enigne in it and it worked awesome
I agree its can do much more than free-ride im using it in my race superjet. But its not that competitive as a hull anymore as I have to go up against 1100 sxr and 1500 sxr. so it gets cleaned up pretty badly. I also use one in my 550 race boat.
- Location
- Riverside, CA
In the United States the good PET tachometer costs over $300, and the PET tachometer
that SeaDoo, Polaris used in their "factory tools" (looks like a pocket calculator) costs
~$135.
Most people spend about $30 for a POS tiny tach.
IMO There is a need for a better tachometer than a tiny tach. That is another reason
why I prefer a tachometer wire. Besides I need better rpm data for our projects than
even a PET can provide.
Bill M.
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waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
They do make an ignition with a wire out on it im pretty sure of it. But not this model
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
http://www.zeeltronic.com/page/pdci-11.php this unit will do what you are after
- Location
- Riverside, CA
Thanks Wax, I will order that one.
Bill M.
Bill M.
Race superjets in mod classes are still capable, a local buddy won a race last year in vet ski open with a superjet against 1500s, triples,etc. (Sorry to de-rail)
waxhead
wannabe backflipper
- Location
- gold coast
Yeah they can do it but your up against it big time and im getting old now
Yeah have to nail the start and stay strong the whole way.
yamabro
GP Performance / Patterson Powersports
- Location
- Dickson, Tn.
I placed my order for (1) PDCIS-02T and (1) hand held programmer with ext. cable.
Looking forward to getting it in
Looking forward to getting it in
yamabro
GP Performance / Patterson Powersports
- Location
- Dickson, Tn.
As soon as I get it in I will post up pictures and details of the waterproof enclosure I’ve been building.
This is what I’ve been building.
This is what I’ve been building.
TehXshizzit
#Killer City Rippers
- Location
- H816
So my ski is running great still, but I have this feeling it's not charging, cause the battery I had all of a sudden died on me and never got better after riding, so I got a new battery cause it was the wrong battery to begin with. I have 13.4 volts without it running and then it goes to 12.45 volts when running. I understand that when charging a battery you need more bolts than it's rated for so looks like a nice trinkel charge to me. Anyone know their numbers?