Freestylegeek's squarenose conversion

[SuperJETT]

Ahhh, pvc exhaust!!!

Looks good Matt, the black head looks cool.

 

[freestylegeek]

Ahhh, pvc exhaust!!!

Looks good Matt, the black head looks cool.

The only reason it's black is because it was in not-so-pretty condition before.
Thanks for the compliment!

 

[douglee25]

Looks BA man!

Doug

 

[Matt_E]

What's the matter with the start/stop switch? Maybe I can help?

 

[freestylegeek]

What's the matter with the start/stop switch? Maybe I can help?

I think it's NTLIE (Newbie Total Loss Installation Error). I don't have a ground from the mount plate to the motor. The starter solenoid is grounded to the mount plate...and that's it.

However, I also checked continuity in my red/brown wires when I push the start button, and there's nothing. I even took apart the safety lanyard switch and physically jumped the two copper lands for the red/brown wires. Still nothing. I'll do more investigating tomorrow.

 

[Shonuff]

It's about time you kept up the good work.

 

[Shonuff]

. . . and get better pulse lines.

 

[freestylegeek]

It's about time you kept up the good work.

Yeah, the little stroker motor fiasco set me back a little. Here's a quick summary:
Found out I the cases were cracked, got new cases, ported them, and had them machined for an 8mm stroker crank(0.070" clearance). My 8mm stroker crank has custom KX 500 or CR 500 rods on it, and they're even beefier than normal, so it didn't clear the cases. Got the cases re-cut (0.095" clearance), put everything together, and at about 30 deg ATDC, the front rod still hit the cases. Some dremel work later, it cleared. Then I had to measure the port timing in order to determine what thickness base gasket to use, and how deep I had to cut my new domes. We ended up with a stock base gasket, and cut the hemisphere in the dome a little more to relieve some compression. Finally, I have my porting set up for freestyle, 0.052" squish, 190 psi motor.

 

[freestylegeek]

. . . and get better pulse lines.

What's wrong with those pulse lines?

 

[goodq]

Well done bro. Well done. :arms::arms::arms:

 

[freestylegeek]

Well done bro. Well done. :arms::arms::arms:

Thanks man, but it won't be well done until I nose in a flatwater backflip. :biggthumpup:

 

[Matt_E]

I think it's NTLIE (Newbie Total Loss Installation Error). I don't have a ground from the mount plate to the motor. The starter solenoid is grounded to the mount plate...and that's it.

However, I also checked continuity in my red/brown wires when I push the start button, and there's nothing. I even took apart the safety lanyard switch and physically jumped the two copper lands for the red/brown wires. Still nothing. I'll do more investigating tomorrow.

You really should run a heavy gauge ground cable from the plate to the battery.
It is essential for the coil(s) and the brain to have good ground.

As for your start switch, I would suspect the wiring at the connectors is faulty.

 

[freestylegeek]

You really should run a heavy gauge ground cable from the plate to the battery.
It is essential for the coil(s) and the brain to have good ground.

As for your start switch, I would suspect the wiring at the connectors is faulty.

I'm trying to figure that out today. I'll test out the switch on my brother-in-laws boat and see what I get.

I'm planning on running at least 8 gauge wire for my ground from the mount plate to the battery.

 

[Shonuff]

What's wrong with those pulse lines?

They need to be thicker so as not to flex under heavy vacuum loads.

 

[freestylegeek]

Well, the ground from the plate to the battery was the problem. I just ran a quick jumper from the ground point to the engine head, and hit the switch. chuga-chuga-chuga. Man, there's a distinctive sound from a stroker motor turning over!

I might have braaaaaap later today!

As far as the pulse lines go, I've used that style for the past 4 years with no issues. They are thicker than stock, and I'm quite certain the pulse lines don't see much more than 3-4 psi of vacuum. Heck, the case only sees 7 psi under compression.

 

[freestylegeek]

OK, everything is in, and wired correctly. However, I am getting no spark. The MSD is on, the LED switch is off, and everything else is right. I guess I'll have to check signal to the coil next.

 

[Matt_E]

Easy way to check: Unplug the trigger from the brain.. Short the two wires going to the brain.

That should trigger a spark.

Did you properly shim the trigger(s)?

 

[freestylegeek]

Easy way to check: Unplug the trigger from the brain.. Short the two wires going to the brain.

That should trigger a spark.

Did you properly shim the trigger(s)?

I'll check it out. The trigger is shimmed right around 0.070". In addition, I have no trouble with the LED firing. If the trigger wasn't shimmed properly/malfunctioning, wouldn't the LED not light up too?

It sucks to be this close, and so far away.:squint:
If I get this working, I should be stripping what's left of my driveshaft tomorow.

 

[Matt_E]

If it's shimmed, it should be good. See if you can get spark by shorting it.

 

[freestylegeek]

It sparks when shorted, and it sparked when I reconnected it. I think the connector wasn't fully pushed in. Time to go get some fuel, and bring this thing to life!