Freestylegeek's squarenose conversion

freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Abe (SJ13) from NorthGraphics designed and installed the vinyl yesterday. I feel complete again now that I have metalflake on my ski! Abe did an absolute KILLER job cutting and installing the graphics! He is a top notch guy! THANK YOU Abe!

My camera couldn't get the rainbow effect of the flake right, but in person, it's pretty impressive.

Now that I fixed my air leak, it's time to start working on the backflips!

Oh, and the ski is perfectly legal now. Titled and registered. It's a "2007 Assembled" instead of a "2007 Yamaha". As of this post, I think I can finally say this thread is done! :arms:
 

Attachments

  • 061707 259.jpg
    061707 259.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 370
  • 061707 258.jpg
    061707 258.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 292
djkorn1

djkorn1

kidkornfilms
Site Supporter
Location
Cleveland Ohio
Badass,

That is classic Geek. :hail: Orange & Metalflake!! :Banane01:Great job, Abe.

I better see that one and Hunter's at the Rock n Ride. It's too close for you guys to make excuses...
 
Y

yamaslut

Guest
freestylegeek said:
Abe (SJ13) from NorthGraphics designed and installed the vinyl yesterday. I feel complete again now that I have metalflake on my ski! Abe did an absolute KILLER job cutting and installing the graphics! He is a top notch guy! THANK YOU Abe!

My camera couldn't get the rainbow effect of the flake right, but in person, it's pretty impressive.

Now that I fixed my air leak, it's time to start working on the backflips!

Oh, and the ski is perfectly legal now. Titled and registered. It's a "2007 Assembled" instead of a "2007 Yamaha". As of this post, I think I can finally say this thread is done! :arms:
Click to expand...

congratulations on a job well done....

:brap: time
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
I just read the whole thread again and must say that this ski rocks.
Great job. :cheer:

I just picked up a WF top deck and am planing a build of my own so let me ask you,.......
What if anything would you have done differently knowing what you know now ?
Anything in the tray area that you would have changed ?


My top deck is at 24LBS (that's double the weight of yours) but I also want this thing to be a solid surf boat. If I get the weight @ around 120 LBS I would be happy.
 
freestylegeek

freestylegeek

waiting...
Location
Grand Rapids, MI
Boris said:
I just read the whole thread again and must say that this ski rocks.
Great job. :cheer:

I just picked up a WF top deck and am planing a build of my own so let me ask you,.......
What if anything would you have done differently knowing what you know now ?
Anything in the tray area that you would have changed ?


My top deck is at 24LBS (that's double the weight of yours) but I also want this thing to be a solid surf boat. If I get the weight @ around 120 LBS I would be happy.
Click to expand...

OK Boris, here's the lessons I learned:

- If you shorten the bottom deck, glass it at an angle, not straight up like the stock hull. It's MUCH easier to do that way.
-If you relocate your steering cable, you can't give yourself enough room. I used a paper towel tub for my mold, but I should have used a pop can or 20 oz bottle.
- If you do rear side exhaust buy an ALUMINUM tube from Patrick at Xmetal. It will be WAY eaiser.
- Use 2lb foam.
- Foam in the bottom of the hull before you even glue the top deck on.
- Route BOTH of your water lines to the left (port) side of the firewall.
- Use twice as many clamps as you think, and use furring strips under the clamps (to distribute the clamping force).
- give yourself at least 3 months to complete the project.

Those are the first things that come to mind.
Whatever you do, you'll end up loving the end result I'm sure.
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
If you shorten the bottom deck, glass it at an angle, not straight up like the stock hull. It's MUCH easier to do that way.
Click to expand...

Why?
I have shortened my OEM hull the straight-up way, and I think it would be quite a bit harder to go angled.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
there is less drag on the hull with landings if it is angled. we have done 3 hulls at an angle now and are getting ready to do the 4th. 120lbs is that hull and hood complete with scuppers and water lines etc?
 
Matt_E

Matt_E

steals hub caps from cars
Site Supporter
Location
at peace
Geek seemed to imply the process of shortening is much easier. That's what I am asking about.
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
freestylegeek said:
OK Boris, here's the lessons I learned:

- If you shorten the bottom deck, glass it at an angle, not straight up like the stock hull. It's MUCH easier to do that way.
-If you relocate your steering cable, you can't give yourself enough room. I used a paper towel tub for my mold, but I should have used a pop can or 20 oz bottle.
- If you do rear side exhaust buy an ALUMINUM tube from Patrick at Xmetal. It will be WAY eaiser.
- Use 2lb foam.
- Foam in the bottom of the hull before you even glue the top deck on.
- Route BOTH of your water lines to the left (port) side of the firewall.
- Use twice as many clamps as you think, and use furring strips under the clamps (to distribute the clamping force).
- give yourself at least 3 months to complete the project.

Those are the first things that come to mind.
Whatever you do, you'll end up loving the end result I'm sure.
Click to expand...

Thank you for sharing your experience.
I'm not planing on shortening my hull but that all may change with time.
No rear exhaust or foam back there but I like the cooling line idea. Makes perfect sense to have them both on the same side.
My build will take longer than yours so I still have time to research all I can and hopefully have a new hull for next years Daytona.

The 120 lbs number I just threw out there giving my self a lot of room to re enforce everything and that would be my goal weight of the hull, hood, scupper and all plumbing. Should be able to get there.

Having you guys do all this before me is a huge help and I thank you all.
Time to break out the grinders, sawzalls and other cutting implements. It's hull building time.
 
D-Roc

D-Roc

I forgot!
Location
Dirty River Rider
Matt_E said:
Geek seemed to imply the process of shortening is much easier. That's what I am asking about.
Click to expand...


okay, but i would think there are more benifits to being angled compared to the way you guys shortend your hulls. thought i would let ya know.

i would think that 120 lbs is very achievable with a top deck that is 24lbs. my buddies oem is at 28lbs with the tray cut out and glue removed. he was grinding it today to get it close to 25 lbs. it is so weak. WCF topdecks would have to be twice as strong as this thing at 24lbs. oem topdecks are junk.
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
This top deck is strong.
May not be Steve's top of the line product (looks like chop) but it is strong.

I'm taking this on as a learning experience and if I get a relatively light but strong hull out of it than I will be more than happy.
My next one will be a featherweight.
:biggthumpup:
 
Boris

Boris

The Good Old Days
Location
The surf-less coast
Rickster said:
I can promise you, Steve does not chop any of his parts....
Click to expand...

Shows how little I know about glass.:banghead:

What ever this thing is made off, just sitting there without the benefit of being bonded to a hull it is still 100 times stronger than my SN.
It has a nice solid ring to it when I hit it.

Plus, there's no pesky fuel filler to glass over. :bananapowerslide:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom