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RIP NATION!!!!!!

Guarantee its the stator, ignore what it looks like, and tests with meter. Put a good one in and your done. I have seen it a few times over the years. Makes you want to beat your ski with a bat. New stator is the answer.

That pic is definitely going on my new website (being built), classic, lmao!!!!

You are missing another part of the system. A ball detent receiver cap presses into the back of the aluminum piece, locking the pin and putting pressure down on the hood. I highly recommend you use them, otherwise the system is useless. I designed that latch set up and it needs all the pieces...

They do more than keep it from moving forward. They keep the hood latched down tight. The button is for the ball detent, the pin will not release until button is pressed. They will not pull out. We have seen rear latches break, and the pins save the hood from coming off. You would have to...

These are the ones we use.......http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/89816847 If you need anything else let me know. Good luck

My cell is 5412316069....give me a call..I have the plates in stock.

Paul, Give me a call at 541-231-6069. I have everything you need and can answer any questions you have. Jeff

The new 1200 on the other hand, he was involved along with some other brilliant people. It will shake things up a bit I assume.

Lincoln had nothing to do with building and tuning the 927 in my ski. That comes from years of dealing with the 66e. If I could get my hands on your junk for a day you might be surprised. Lincoln has developed the efi, but the 66e stuff he asks my input. Confirm it yourself.

Deck the cylinders .080 and recut the domes, set squish clearance at .065 with .010 run out. Set the power valve cap almost all the way out. I have a great timing curve for you......send me an email. Oh, and hang the f#$k on, makes awesome bottom end. Hope this helps.

SHORTER!!!!!! SHORTER!!!!! still too long......you need only about 3" of tube showing on that RRP.......trust me.

Toby, I like the front foothold, looks killer........especially for a hillbilly!!!!!!

Wdk rok-r Here is a video of that "big guy" flipping a true 701, 61x, single carb, completely stock ignition, with only a b-pipe, and head running 185psi on pump gas. The hull is a fiberglass version that weighs 77 pounds. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yltuUsF3U98&feature=youtu.be

The powervalve assembly for the WDK1200 is unique in many different ways. The valve body is machined out of billet aluminum, keeping the overall weight down. The shaft is a ground, hardened steel, that is turned on a cnc lathe to exact specs. The base is also machined from aluminum and has a...

The next step is to install the custom V Force 3 reeds. We countersink the reed cage into our reed spacer, and machine the cage to fit. They sit below our billet intake manifold, which accepts up to 50mm carbs. They are snowmobile VF3's used on the M1000, since they do not make them...

The massive billet cylinders are ready to go on. We use a high quality copper base gasket.....no cheap paper here:scratchchin: Did I mention the price of copper? HOLY COW!!!!! The cylinders are now on......piston clearance, and ring end gap is perfect!!!!! Only the best for...

The bottom end is now complete with the mount kit. It is time for the huge top end this engine has. The pistons are Wiseco 98mm forged "monsters". They are 80 grams lighter than our previous version. The whole focus on the Gen3 WDK1200 is to make it rev hard and super fast. The...

The bottom end is now assembled and torqued to spec. So far so good:Banane36: Next, I put on the WDK mount kit, which is made from billet aluminum rear ears, and a steel plate that is nickle plated. It is very strong and we have had zero failures with this in 7 years of use. The Rok-R...