Ok ok... Let me know where it is and I'll go check it out for you. After I get it home I'll let you know how good of a deal it was. LOL
You should grab it up. Sell the trailer,... Free B1
A "T" bolt style clamp isn't overkill, it's PEACE OF MIND.
Your standard worm drive/hose clamp can easily be over torqued and stripped out.
With a T-bolt clamp, if you do over torque it more than likely it'll destroy your coupler.
We've had this happen a time or two because the outer sleeve had some rust or one or more of the ports had some scarring that grabbed the cylinder. (It's always best to address these issues before sleeve removal)
In your case when the sleeve has at least half of the exhaust port out of the upper...
That's what I thought. I've got a couple laying around so I'm going to bore a few different sizes and see what I like best.
I'm also going to do some 144 reduction nozzles for another set up I have. I'll post those pics up as I go.
So far I've Ground down the OEM siphon tube and the pisser tube.
Then I put a flat piece of stainless steel on the back side of the open hole to make it easier to hold the melting aluminum as I Tig welded them up and smoothed them down.
Now I'm going to bore it out. It's at 86mm. I was going...
Send the OEM crank off to get rebuilt, ($400-$700 average) the OEM crank is far better than the aftermarket cranks.
Top end kit, ($300-$400 depending on brand)
But you can probably find a "RUNNING" donor on Craigslist for $800-$1000
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