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Used heat, used cheaters, still stuck. I feel any more and I will break the prop tool or strip the shaft. If it is indeed galled, it won't matter anyway. It will only come off by cutting it. My next attempt will be to see if I can spin it at least back to where it started and then try again. If...

I've got a solas 12/17 stainless stuck on the drive shaft. Intentions are to replace it with a hooker 9/15. Got the prop to spin 2-3 turns and now it's tight. I used heat and way too long of cheater pipes... My initial thought was galling. Now, what's my best option? I was going to cut the 12/17...

So are you guys running the jet in the line itself or drilling and tapping the carb to accept the jet? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I drilled out the nut so the original pole bolt fits through. Then I took a flat end carbide burr and chucked it up in my drill press. Used it basically like a mill. Had to take a little off the nut so it wasn't a tight fit. As for the grinding, if you go this route, you'll see what you have to...

Going riding tonight. I'll snap some and post them up after Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I run a rn pole on my sn with a sn bracket. Flap wheel on grinder and you'll be set in about an hour if you know what your doing. I used stainless 7/8 hex nuts drilled out and machined down as my spacers. All in all about 4 hours of work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I feel that the only way to cold seize these motors with this open loop cooling system is to do it initially after start up and pin it to wot. Once the manifold has a chance to warm up, so will the water that runs through it, and the water that hits the cylinders will already be pre warmed by...

What you describe sounds like a blown top end through and through Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You might have a dead spot in the armature on the starter, if your close to a good spot it will spin over. If it stops right on the bad spot, it won't and all you'll hear is the relay (click). I bet if there was a way to nudge it to spin when you get those clicks, you find out it would spin over...

My buddy was on the fence about splitting the case on a sled motor after a burn down comparable to yours. Decided to split them and check bearings. Seemed perfectly fine until you wash all the oil out and then you could feel the grit from the burn down. Ended up getting a new crank. You can skip...

They most certainly do if you want to save a burndown. Been there. Egt's on my sled saved a burn down three different times with three different problems. Those combined with plug reading and wash is how I tuned that motor and it flat out rips Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Did you hold it in one spot? Always vary the throttle position and don't let it stay in one place. Move it, blip it, brap it, whatever you want to call it, just keep it moving. My guess is you just came off a long pull and right afterwards gave the motor a dose of part throttle cruising, and in...

If they can make shooting apps that let you place a bullet on target at 1000yards with all the input variables, you should be able to come up with an app that would at very least bring you to within a jet size of optimum. You might have to possibly expand your variables and input tables a little...

No body has done it yet, probably because of water jackets, but ideally you should tune off of egt's along with piston wash and plug reading. I agree, tach tuning gets you the best performance at wot when in reality your going to need a much richer setup down low, otherwise like said earlier...

If you think your plugs got washed clean, take the dark one and see how clean you can get it in acetone and a tooth/wire brush and then think if it's possible to clean a plug that well inside of the motor when the walls and head were covered with that gray oil residue Sent from my iPhone...

Only reason I thought this was because the plugs were uniform dark gray. First thought was blown top end, even before you took the head off. I've blown motors before and the plugs looked just like your one, except missing the metal pieces, which you prob lucked out on. All I can say is try to...

I sat next to you when you had the head off and we were trying to figure out what went wrong. I could have sworn that the grayish plug came from the rear cylinder. That was my first thought when you pulled the plug out and it was gray, same as the dome and cylinder wall on that rear cylinder...

I thought there was barely a difference between 61x and 6m6 cases? Btw, I'm the guy with ski no2 ;) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

+1 on wood chop saw. Works perfect! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm not going to argue. It gets no where. This is how I break in my two strokes. My engines run, and run good. I believe the crosshatch has a window of time to seat the rings properly. Once it's gone, it's gone. Everyone does their own thing. This is mine and it works for me Sent from my...