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I am pretty much in the same situation, I am fat enough in the front where it is not an issue now. However it pisses me off that I don't know the reason for the difference. I am restricted and have temp monitors everywhere, I keep a keen eye on things. I did not try pumping fuel to each carb...

1st remove battery and tray, 2nd remove fuel tank, then go to town on it. Mark out which shims came where!

Get rid of the poop round bodies and get a single sbn44 you will be much better off. The round bodies are tough to get tuned in correctly especially on modified boats. They have no removable jetting. Its possible that one cylinder was leaned way out due to crap carb. That would explain the heat...

Did you correctly shim the pump and midshaft first of all? It seems odd that spinning the midshaft coupler 1/3 of a turn gives differing alignment results... if that is actually the case something else is wrong.

I think they will make it harder to tune, not being able to see the insulator base. The graphs on the images don't show any gain in any category.

@hink320 I used this 15mm under my turf and it works well. http://www.mec.ca/product/0808-022/zotefoams-evazote-winter-sleeping-pad/?No=40&h=10 50050&f=10 50050

You need to put a big ricer spoiler on that hood for downforce.

Thai Bar Girl.

Looks wicked! How much for a hull if I come out to Sasky and help?

I tried a fibre optic bore scope and it sucked. Not enough resolution, maybe a digital version would be better. I picked up this and can see the whole crown and some of the walls. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00008BFS6?pc_redir=1407367039&robot_redir=1

Looks surprisingly good, the oil looks like it did a good job of protecting the crank. I bet it has some rusty bearing surfaces though. piston rings look a bit rusty in one of the pics.

Camping with the family at Lake Cowichan.

Good news on the Nikasil cylinder dude, that will lessen the pain.

Reminds me of Sam the Eagle from the Muppets.

Yes, full tear down. Change everything that needs changing... new gaskets and oem crank seals. Ask EME about crank rebuild, and potential boring if needed. You don't know until its apart and people see pics though. While your at it rebuild those carbs and do new fuel filters and lines if...

0.43mm? 0.043in? If it is 0.043in leave it alone, thats a good squish clearance. Now if this is the case your compression gauge reads low or your compression is low, check it with another gauge and report back.

Yeah if you stood the ski up that could happen for sure. I was reading a thread the other day, it was said that one of the cons of a lay down style of pipe like your power factor is that water can potentially back flow into the engine. Who knows if that was the cause. Its always good...

@Wumpscut223 I would inspect that crank before I fired it up. I would not want to take the risk of the top end eating needle bearings or worse.

How do you know your compression gauge is correct? Like @kurtwolff said you have to check your squish before you change your base gasket.

I am curious, did your ring compressor force that alignment pin into the piston and deform it? I am impressed that you were able to fit the piston into the bore.