oxnard111
Creative RE Purchasing
- Location
- so Cali, Ventura/Oxnard area
i'd just take a pressure washer to the inside and call it a day when it comes to flaking paint.
Kennay's 760 powered Squarenose total rebuild
- Thread starter Kennay
- Start date
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
Well on the areas where the foam will be I am not worried about, I am just going to knock off what I can and then foam it. On the areas where glass is going to be laid, it's going to be spotless down to the fiberglass. Prep work is the most important part. I think on this site it's way overlooked. In some of these build threads, I almost can't believe what I am seeing... people glassing over stickers, nastly oily fiberglass, paint, ect....
you only get out what you put in
I'm not concerned with the prep work, it is all taken care of with some blood and sweat. It's the concept behind the foam and laying fiberglass that I am worried about. I want the nose to be beastly.
you only get out what you put in
I'm not concerned with the prep work, it is all taken care of with some blood and sweat. It's the concept behind the foam and laying fiberglass that I am worried about. I want the nose to be beastly.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
Thanks. I am trying my hardest not to halfway anything on this piece.
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
Great build thread you have here and I'm curious to see how it going to turn out.
Mcdog is right about mixing glass micro balloons with the epoxy to fill in the bond line.
If you use 3-part epoxy mix with about two thirds micro balloons in becomes real light and sands similar body filler. It's also a lot stronger then just using foam in that area before doing your glass reinforcement.
Also if you plan on using a trim system in the future it would help to mount the outlet hole for your steering tube higher, so it doesn't interfere with the pump cooling fitting outlet while you have it all apart now. That way the steering cable won't bind when going full trim up and turning at the same time.
Have you decided on how you're going to run your exhaust?
Mcdog is right about mixing glass micro balloons with the epoxy to fill in the bond line.
If you use 3-part epoxy mix with about two thirds micro balloons in becomes real light and sands similar body filler. It's also a lot stronger then just using foam in that area before doing your glass reinforcement.
Also if you plan on using a trim system in the future it would help to mount the outlet hole for your steering tube higher, so it doesn't interfere with the pump cooling fitting outlet while you have it all apart now. That way the steering cable won't bind when going full trim up and turning at the same time.
Have you decided on how you're going to run your exhaust?
- Location
- South Florida
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I already have the bond line covered, no offense, but notice how I never asked about the bondline
I am talking about the bracket area.... I am using epoxy and cabosil to fill the bondline, it worked great in the back, and I was able to lay the glass over it as soon as it tacked a little bit... no need to sand.
I am talking about the bracket area.... I am using epoxy and cabosil to fill the bondline, it worked great in the back, and I was able to lay the glass over it as soon as it tacked a little bit... no need to sand.
- Location
- Webster, NY
With the foam or whatever filler you end up using I would try to make the nose area one big sloping section. Try not to have any abrupt corners and definitely make sure to wrap the glass all over the sides to gain strength, especially since you don't care about final weight. In my personal opinion I would use 8lb. 2 part foam to fill in all the voids. I just got done reinforcing a lenzi hull with 8lb and just some little glass and man did it stiffen things up, very amazed with how strong it really is. Looks good so far and can't wait to see it all done.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
Yea, I'm not worried about any other part aside from the bracket area. 8lb foam sounds good..... Thanks
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
no need... I don't see backflips in my future anytime soon! haha
I think I am just going to lower the hole on the bulkhead, and run it out the back using the stock stuff. I was looking at it, and it appears as though I can lower the exhaust hole on the bulkhead enough to clear the foothold, and then take something and bend the mounting area on the transom to make it flush since the angle changed. If I can't get it to go flush without cutting, I guess I will have to do some sort of side exhaust.
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
If you mount the exhaust tube lower in the front it should work fine exiting at the rear as normal.
The rubber exhaust hose should fit, just keep it high enough in the front section so the waterbox doesn't get loaded up.
The rubber exhaust hose should fit, just keep it high enough in the front section so the waterbox doesn't get loaded up.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
Will do. Thanks dude
- Location
- South Florida
If you twist the exhaust tube it will still fit flush on the hull.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I always overlook the obvious
LOL, everytime. Thanks for the very easy solution mcdog.. makes perfect sense.
LOL, everytime. Thanks for the very easy solution mcdog.. makes perfect sense.
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
What kind of reinforcement are you planning on doing and what type of material are you using?
I ended up making a template for each side, starting at the bullhead going all the way to the center of the nose on both sides.
Then I made a separate one just for the reinforcement under the bracket area.
I ended up making a template for each side, starting at the bullhead going all the way to the center of the nose on both sides.
Then I made a separate one just for the reinforcement under the bracket area.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I am planning on doing the inside just like I did the tray area. I took cabosil and filled the bondline, and then a 6" strip of 12 over that, and then a top to bottom piece over that, all done in 12oz biax, with us composited medium cure epoxy resin.
The bracket area is still up in the air
As for the hoodlip area, I was planning on filling the void with cabosil while I have it up in the air, and doing something like a 2" strip of 12oz on top (Inside the ski, over the void, and down the inside). Sound ok? I would do this before I did the side reinforcement.
I will bust out the trusty paint skills....
The bracket area is still up in the air
As for the hoodlip area, I was planning on filling the void with cabosil while I have it up in the air, and doing something like a 2" strip of 12oz on top (Inside the ski, over the void, and down the inside). Sound ok? I would do this before I did the side reinforcement.
I will bust out the trusty paint skills....
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#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
On the sides you can run a single piece of biaxle from the bottom all the way up to the top of the hood lip without any problems.
You'll have to make a small patch at the engine bulk head for the rear lip area and the front section should be one piece under the pole bracket incorporating the front hood lip.
I used the brown construction paper they sell at home depot to make the templates then used a magic maker to trace the inside contours out.
It helped to transfer the outline of the hull to the biaxle for a perfect fit.
You'll have to make a small patch at the engine bulk head for the rear lip area and the front section should be one piece under the pole bracket incorporating the front hood lip.
I used the brown construction paper they sell at home depot to make the templates then used a magic maker to trace the inside contours out.
It helped to transfer the outline of the hull to the biaxle for a perfect fit.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I gotcha.. I was mainly concerned that the sharp angle would cause the glass to lift right there... if you say so, I will do it in one piece
#ZERO
Beach Bum
- Location
- Florida - U.S.A.
It will work fine with one continuous piece of glass under the hood lip area.
It's almost impossible to sand epoxy with cabosil if you're going to fill under the hood lip, the micro balloons would work better in this area IMO.
Cabosil is more of a thickening agent, while the glass micro balloons are more for structural filling and light weight.
It's almost impossible to sand epoxy with cabosil if you're going to fill under the hood lip, the micro balloons would work better in this area IMO.
Cabosil is more of a thickening agent, while the glass micro balloons are more for structural filling and light weight.
Kennay
Squarenose for the _____
- Location
- Myrtle Beach, SC
I've been laying it on while it's still wet/tacky. That bad? I haven't been needing to sand it because the glass has been smoothing it out where it lays overtop.