Blaster Rick's Detailed 1100 Blaster Conversion

Oceanside, pt loma ,and the bay. Just depends on if I am bringing out friends. Let me know if you ever are looking for people to ride with or need an extra set of hands on the build.
 

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
For painting you need to have 4 pieces: hull, lower hood, cowling (upper hood) and lower portion of the seat.

I took the hood apart (bagged and tagged the bolts and parts as usual). I have heard that the rear air intake interferes with the rear portion of the 1100 motor. Not sure if this is true but I have to get this to the paint shop soon, so I'm going to block it off. After I get it back from painting I will cut a new location (or re-cut back to original spot). Glass it and put it Mar-Glas over it.

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ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
Any regrets with your decision to go all black? Sounds like a lot of work.
You know what they say, once black you never go back. LOL. It is a BUNCH more work to prep the top portion of the ski. I'll answer your question after I see the paint and graphics :)
 
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ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
Next focus area is the exhaust selection



This part looks straight forward but there is a lot to consider as a first timer. It’s a big part of the cost of the conversion as well. Originally, I heard obtaining a Raider 1100 water box was all you need. (I believe the Raider has two water boxes, so you want the one with one opening located on the side and the other on the end). So I bought one for $60 from a guy in Vegas who seems to have tons of Wave Raider parts. The kawi stock pipe has a 2 3/8 outlet. The opening for the stock raider water box inlet is 2 ¼ inches and the exit is 2 3/8. So the puzzle pieces start to become tricky.

After I looked into this with Scottie Mac, Extreem Throttle and Rad Dudes, they all recommend a less restrictive exhaust. This means performing modifications which most of us cannot do to a Raider exhaust. It requires cutting open the water box, removing baffles and or drilling out more holes in the baffles and welding it all back together.

So what are the options?

Extreme Throttle specifically makes a water box for this conversion. They also sell the hoses and exhaust outlet. This makes all the parts match & its one stop shopping, but it gets pricy for all this. Rad Dudes takes a Raider box and modifies the baffles and converts the inlet and exit on the Raider water boxes to 2 ½ inches, then finishes it off with a nice powder coat. They sell them off the shelf or can modify yours. Rad Dudes also sells the exit outlet.

I did look at using the stock Kawi water box but it is way too big to get through the battery box opening of the Blaster. Since I had the Riva rear exhaust on the ski I also tried to see if I could use a straight line water box to save work on this exhaust. The issue with a straight line exhaust it is missing the loop or hump to minimize water intrusion from the exhaust into the motor. The other deal breaker for straight line exhaust was the existing Riva exhaust outlet was too small diameter.

So what did I do?

Since I already invested in the Raider water box, I chose to have Rad Dudes perform the mod. I wasn't fond of anyones exhaust pipe exit. After all, Blowsion makes some serious eye candy for exhaust outlets, vs. what was available, looked like a fence post welded to a giant washer flange. Then I found the IPD (who happens to be right here in San Diego) exhaust outlet.

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I saved the exhaust hoses from the donor ZXI ski, so I hope I can get everything to connect.
 
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ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
Use a mig welder and load up the race section of the bearing that's stuck in there. Once the weld cools and shrinks it should pop right out. The shrinking will make the outer diameter smaller.

Had to do the same to mine.
It worked!! I kept torching the outside aluminum shaft. I thought expanding the outside part was the thing to do. This time I took Bruceski's advice and I torched the bearing. Got it red hot. While it was on the vice cooling down it just fell out onto the floor. F yeah! Rick vs. bearing...I WIN! Second pic - look at bottom right corner of the photo - defeated bearing ;)

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BruceSki

Formerly Motoman25
Location
Long Island
Yeah. Just gotta get it to break that rust bond.

Next time I have to do one I'll try to take a pic. The welder was a great trick. My buddy taught me. Literally took 45 seconds to get it out without hurting any of the important parts.
 
Nice build so far. Im doing the same thing about to paint the hull next week. Do you know if a regular waveraider waterbox will work? Or do you need the raddudes box? Is the outlet the only different between these waterboxs?
 

ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
Nice build so far. Im doing the same thing about to paint the hull next week. Do you know if a regular waveraider waterbox will work? Or do you need the raddudes box? Is the outlet the only different between these waterboxs?
Thx. The process has been fun so far. My painter is lagging.

Kawi pipe outlet is 2 3/8. The opening for the stock raider water box inlet is only 2 ¼ inches and the exit is 2 3/8, so you are going into a restrictive inlet with that stock waterbox. Furthermore, the guys who do these builds frequently, highly recommend opening up the baffles (inner parts of the waterbox). The Rad Dudes waterbox not only puts a 2 3/8 inlet on, but also drills open more holes into the baffles.

So you are at the point I was, finding out the waterbox done right is going to cost more.
You can put that stock waterbox in with hose adapters, but the dry pipe mod (which I am about to post) seems like a waste if the back portion of the exhaust is going to restrict it.
 
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ItsRixter

SoCal Wav Jumping shiznit
Location
Sunny Diego
Dlibal88,

Here is a cut-a-way of a waterbox to show the baffles (I think this is an sxr waterbox with added/ drilled out holes). The 1100 mod, done right, has an "opened up" waterbox.

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