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Well, I ground it out and it's just foam past that. I got a 2" PVC pipe lined up perfectly right along the bottom of the hull.

Thanks, that metal screw that's visible inside the hole I cut looks like the same kind of screw as what's on the front side of the bulkhead. So can I grind it out now and punch the hole through? I've never heard of anyone else hitting this so am I drilling lower than most?

I'm trying to make a 2" hole for a PVC tube for my Versiplug and ran into this metal thing near the front. Any idea what it is and if I can get rid of it? Also, any other obstacles to expect?

I just got another 2" Sched 40 PVC pipe from Rona for $28 (I'm in Canada) because the one I got from Home Depot here was too big inside. Same name, but different size. This one is perfect. Just make sure the pipe ID is less than 2.062" if you want to start before your Versiplug arrives. It...

Sorry to wake up an oldish thread but I'm finally getting around to installing a Versiplug Max and have a couple questions for Benny or anyone else who has done this: I got some 2" schedule 40 PVC pipe and noticed that the ID of this pipe is 2.129" and the outside of Versiplug is exactly 2" and...

I use this method with success all the time on frozen bolts. Works great!

This is probably too late, but could you not just heat up and kink the whole tube somewhere in the middle to make the rear sealing angle match? Up front you just cut it off flush anyway. Is it finished already? Lets see it. I like the plug option idea you did!

Fuel selector on your dash. On-OFF-RES. Take the lines off and blow it out. Also, did you spray carb cleaner through all of the carb passages when it was totally apart? IMO that pop off pressure seems way to low which makes it overly rich and hard to tune down low.

I was serious. Looks good! As for the pickup, I suppose all you would gain is about 1/4" lower which is no big deal. I have to do this project next using a Versiplug Max. It's not here yet but I assume it's designed to fit inside a 2" pvc pipe??

Disconnect stop button and see if it starts. Then give it away.

I have a leaky shower I need you to take a look at :biggrin:. Seriously, that looks great! I noticed you had easy access and didn't bother angling the inlet down to the lowest part by the mid shaft. Is it not worth the hassle for only a few millimeters lower pickup?

lookin good so far.

First, nice install! I have one of these on order right now too. What happens when the ski is on it's side, not moving....won't it just fill right up with water without a bilge pump running? (My WCF hood flows about 300 gallons/sec when on it's side.) I've read about using 'street 45°s' to...

cookerq62 is bang on. Good idea to get new boots. (any autoparts store should have the same MSD ones available) Make sure your spark plug leads are not touching your pipe or head, etc. or they could ground out there instead of at the spark plug.

OK, I just got back from a good holiday with my RN running great! After talking with a few people, (Art at Jetworks was one of them) the consensus was that one of my plug wires was grounding out somewhere. You can run the engine at night to see where the spark is jumping and you can determine...

We're counting on you to talk sense to him when the pain killers wear off! When I'm in the water I'm half my age! You can't buy that feeling.

I put the CDI, coil and stator grounds together. On the other post, I put regulator and stop switch. How's that?

I have a Factory B-Pipe Limited Chamber. I don't see any cracks but there was a little bit of exhaust grime leaking from the manifold to head pipe. I just cleaned the grounds in the ebox.

Yea, I wasn't happy with their crimp connection so I soldered it this time too. I get a good steady ohm reading from the ends.

I don't understand your first sentence about the plug boot voltage. I checked both wire ends and got an ohm reading of 4.2 K ohms which is within spec. The primary winding readings (Orange and Black wires) were .8 ohms which was also within spec.