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2004 Superjet. Engine is running rough and seems to have lost some power on the low end (e.g. when trying launch a wave). The engine vibrates pretty good. It has done this for a while now. I tried to attach a video file, but the site wouldn't allow .mov files. See YouTube link below. Engine...

If not done so already, you might want to make sure your battery is fully charged and/or try a different known good battery. Might be good to also assure you have a good solid non-corroded connection at the battery terminals as well. Not a real novel suggestion, but a simple one. Good luck!

Sounds simple, but you might want to also check your idle setting screw on the carb... (where the the throttle cable wire attaches to the carb).

Weird... Could also be the start/stop switch itself. They do have a tendency to crap out, get stuck, etc. or the wiring. You might want to check the continuity of the switch (both start and stop) as well as the wiring to see if there is a short. Using a meter with an audible diode continuity...

Slow cranking sure sounds like a likely battery problem. If you have another known good battery try it. Also, if not done so already, would leave the car battery connected with the car running for maybe 10-15 minutes, then try it.

I don’t know what ski or carb you have, but on my superjet’s w Mikuni 38 carbs I have always seen a spotless internal filter when doing rebuilds. So yours probably could use replacing. You now need to figure out what is causing the gunk and corrosion. I always use 93 octane fuel with Castor 927...

Ugh. Been there. It may sound too simple but could be a fuel flow problem. Might try replacing the in-line fuel filter. If that does not make a difference try replacing the fuel, and then the fuel lines if they aren’t new. Could also be a leaky exhaust. See if you notice any smell. Sucking the...

You can always drill small holes (maybe 1/8 inch) in the rear of the hull just above the lowest points on each side. If it drains water you will know. You can plug these holes with a variety of products, or a couple stainless screws. I would use a white puddy I cannot recall the exact name of at...

Mine has the turf cut like a square flap over the bolt heads. This way you can access the bolts (although this is not really needed). I bought it this way. If I was to do it over, I might cutout the area of the turf where the bolts are, and then use another piece of turf on top of the first...

You could just clean them and reuse all the existing gaskets, etc. I have done that before with no problem. Just go slow when messing with the gaskets. Fully understand the impatience factor!

That is one dirty engine. Looks like it went 4 wheeling or something. ;-) Taking the carbs apart and cleaning is maybe a 2 hour job. Better off doing this than having some of that crud sucked through the carbs

I had a similar sounding issue with a SuperJet. After trying a ridiculous amount of things to fix it... replacing the (relatively new) fuel filter for $5 fixed it. Replacing the motor is expensive and is only a last resort. Things like carb adjustments, replacing fuel lines, replacing fuel...

I paid 3400 maybe 6 years ago for a stock 2001 Superjet in basically perfect condition. So, 3500 might be a little high. I would try try for 3000. Asking 4500 is way high. Also if you are coming from 550, no need for any performance mods right away. This will feel very strong for you.

This one seems so close. Seems to match the size of the aluminum bolt I removed. https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=9009 :-(

Seemed to good to be true. Thanks for setting me straight!

Great suggestion. I considered this, but decided against it for the reason you noted (might eventually slide back). Your simple solution is perfect! Thanks.

I might consider replacing the pivot bolt just to be safe. The OEM Yamaha pivot bolt is $57. I can get the same size hex stainless steel (18-8 grade?) bolt for $6 from boltdepot.com. Any idea if there might be difference in strength, hardness, etc?

Thanks. Using a small cut off wheel did the trick in removing the nut. And with your suggestion, I should be able to save the bolt (surprised that the bolt is hollow). I did not have much play in moving the bracket (I assume that is what you mean by crown), so I may end up inserting some washers...

Plasma cutter would do the trick. Just do not have one. Which is probably good, since with the luck I am having on this, I would probably cut through the bracket and water box. ;-(

I have tried getting a screwdriver between the nut and washer and getting some horizontal pressure while wrenching it. No help. I am out of good ideas, and am thinking my only option is to cut the nut or bolt, and replace with new ones. I am thinking the nut and bolt are likely fairly hardened...