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Chris Bush,,, lol, you mean this guy??? Haha, yep I know him well, he’s still at it. My freestyle ski has one of his stroker Octane based engines (1080 cc) that makes well over 200 HP. He and Baxter were the best duo there ever was and every will be.

I have been on several 701 converted Octanes and they are a joke compared to the real deal. I have 3 777 octanes and they are insanely fast. 100 hp vs 70 hp doesn’t compare no matter what language you’re speaking

Chambers are a 30 second test and only requires a screw driver to pull two of your 3/8 lines. Remove the first two hoses ( water feed in and water out to stinger) Put a piece of hose on the water in and blow on it with your mouth while putting your thumb over the overboard pisser and the water...

It’s a Yamaha b pipe kit with 61x manifold. Octane 777 engine uses an adapter plate to mount up to the 138 bore space and bolt pattern of the Polaris.

Ours are fiberglass Bulkhead with just the 4 inserts showing, no plate under the Midshaft housing.

I defoamed a tiny Rickter Ninja x that had a waterlogged tray (one year old ski) and I scraped 14 pounds of waterlogged foam out,,, and that’s after the ski hung inverted for 3 months with drain holes drilled in the back that had literally dripped for weeks. Tray is 1/2 the size of a SuperJet.

I have a Skat billet 148 Mag 14 vane housing I would sell for $900 shipped. It does not currently have bearings, shaft, impeller or nozzles on it. I do have all those components and price would go up depending on what you want included.

You will need a midshaft with bearing and seal steps re-machined to be almost right up the the back of the coupler so it can press farther into the midshaft housing as well as a shortened shaft. In total the midshaft and driveshaft will be about 3-3.5” shorter than a shaft for most other...

Anything less than .005” in a jet ski is risky business, personally I wouldn’t be worried about .006 clearance in a fresh straight bore. Tight clearance in the washing machine environment inside a jet ski is a good way to wipe out a motor. Water takes up the clearance and smears the piston...

No electronics, just a jet

3 and 1 are both spray bar locations depending how far down you want spray bar

Yup

Makes the pipe super light weight with very little water jacket and significantly wakes up the pipe on the bottom end doesn’t sign off on top like a B-pipe. Kinda best of everything if there is such a thing.

That’s what we call a BunFactor. Type 4 will rip your arms off set up that way too...

Don’t worry about the pins, none of our freestyle engines have them. Extra weight you don’t need, good for about 3 feet of extra height in an arial trick...

I check timing based on piston position before top dead center with a dial indicator so I know exactly where the piston is located when the magnet tells the pickup to fire. If the crank is out of phase it is immediately evident, that is where my reference is coming from. You are correct in the...

You typed faster than me Zack, lol

Is it the dual or single pickup trigger plate? If it’s dual, may have a crank out of phase by a few degrees. Moving the pickup plate up and down in the boss can vary by a degree from one hole to the other. Also, loosening the trigger screws and pinching together or apart can vary a degree or...

TC Freeride, I think they were about $2300 USD

Running SE 50’s on a Bun 1200 and and have time on Novi 48’s on same engine, they are both comparable. Both clean, crisp and easy to tune. Coin toss on performance. SE’s are clearly cleaner than some other annular discharge carbs I’ve been involved with. Can’t go wrong either way in my opinion