Search results

You need to use Viton o rings! Even those eventually burn thru- but you'd get a decent service life out of them, compared to others. In this static application a durometer of less than 90 would be preferred.

I had bought seven ATP Epics (gen 1). Four are still working well in my skis, three went to friends who could not get them to work properly. I have rather aggressive curves on mine- but they don't see much wot operation. They do seem to be sensitive to low cranking speed, so..... a good battery...

No serious harm, just 20 psi lower compression.......

That would work- but the left front capscrew should be 65mm long- in other words: four at 70mm and one at 65 ( wont stick out and possibly interfere with B pipe chamber) These are fine thread, chrome plated steel- not a hardware store item.

Five year old info- but might explain why Ms Cindy never has nothing.......https://www.northbaybusinessjournal.com/industrynews/4182546-181/factory-pipe-starts-6-million

Still have this t shirt. Where is Mardikian and Natasha now?

Item was well described, priced nicely and shipped rapidly. Would not mind buying more items from him- but ........ I'm trying to get over my hoarding addiction.

If you open the electrical box, consider disconnecting the brown wire that comes from the stator and check if you have approx. 500 ohm from it to ground. Yo'd be testing the charge coil (the white thingy in link) for continuity...

The size is: 7.5mm inside,10.5mm outside- 1.5mm thick. Since it is for a static application, a rather "soft" compound would be indicated. Since there is a bit of ethanol in the gas, additional chemical resistance would be nice. I just "repaired" a set of 38's for a friend, came out of a...

This might be easier. Worked well for me- do you really want more stuff vibrating on top of the carbs?

You could use a drill bit of proper size to gauge the distance of shaft to bulkhead, also grab spline end of shaft and pick up slightly to compensate for droop caused by bearing clearance.

I certainly concur with the above post. Just dealt with Jetmaniac- could not have been better!

Be advised that you install/ align the pump first, then the midshaft, then the engine!

Aftermarket starters, stators , bendix and control cables have a p. poor reputation and rightfully so! Pro-X products are fine, "same as OE" (thanks, John). Been using their seals with new oem cranks as well as legacy RAD strockers for a very long time

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062-High-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBGHB8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1535157838&sr=8-1&keywords=permatex+high+tack+gasket+sealant works well on pipe threads too! Some automotive jobbers such as NAPA stock it.

Duh.... when you unplug that wire the regulator no longer senses bat voltage- there is nothing there to regulate! It's also a bit hard on the rectifier diodes in that unit. The lighting coil can only put out about 2.5 A at high rpm, very little at idle. Charging voltage can only approach 14.5...

And you promise that the red wire from the regulator/rect. not just connects to the red for the h/pole switch, but also via that little jumper to the fuse- which then can feed the battery.

That thin line of sealer on the oem gasket is an American patent called Print-o seal. If that gasket still looks good you could probably reuse it even without additional sealer. Permatex " High Tack" in a brush top can- not the aerosol- is an excellent gasket sealer. Water can also get to the...

When I measure them, I come up with M3- 0.5 pitch. If you just need a couple, I could send them to you- stashed in a greeting card - free. Pic shows what they look like.

And not only does he have most anything you might require- he also ships immediately!!!!!!