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Better than a B pipe?

Pretty cool, I hope you have flood insurance, that's pretty close to the house.

that should help. you can also check your prop while you are at it. spin the prop on the shaft with the wear ring installed. use a pencil to trace the edge of the blades onto the wear ring. blades tend to bend in on the leading edge, and out on the trailing. trace a blade, and then rotate the...

stock is metal, someone has had the wear ring replaced with a plastic one. the main thing is clearance. the manual says 0.25 to .035 mm. that's between the blade and wear ring. the wear ring does look pretty rough. smoothing it out woth some fine sandpaper will make a difference as it sits. I am...

I do a leakdown test on my dirtbike after a rebuild too. it's a two stroke thing.

a leaking head or exhaust gasket could leak water into your motor. you didn't do a leakdown test when you were done buliding the motor? that would have shown you had a leak. a quick (and dirty) way to check for a leak is plug the cooling waterline going into the bottom of your exhaust manifold...

you can't repair it?

open up the ebox, and jump the small leads on the selenoid, if it turns over, you have a starter switch problem, or bad connection. if it doesn't turn over, then jump the larger terminals, if it turns over, you have a bad selenoid. if it sparks but doesn't turn over, you have a starter problem...

so that's why I havent seen him around, lol, he sends me an email parts list occasionally. one of my friends needed a part he had but the price was a little steep after adding paypal fees and shipping.

you can try this guy, he's not real cheap, but might have some rideplates. http://www.x-h2o.com/threads/70489-YAMAHA-PARTS-Superjet-Waveblaster-FX1-VXR-WR3-MORE&highlight=

do you have a ride plate now? I have a DG quadra-fin and like it, but Fx1 ride plates are kinda hard to come by nowdays so it's not like you have a lot of choices.

I comes right after an A pipe :lmao:

"Guess I don't know about the rope trick " you feed piece of rope throught the spark plug hole so that the piston is jammed against it and the motor can't rotate, instead of using a flywheel holder. not the best solution, but it works.

then how do you torque it back on? if the torque is not correct you could damage your crank.

Not everyone has an impact wrench. I use one of these, http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/989/-/18289/Tusk-Clutch-Holding-Tool/CLUTCH+HOLDER great tool, holds flywheels, dirt bike clutches, gears.

do you have a flywheel holder and puller? not really any tricks, there are marks on the stator and case, I would just put the new one same as the old. you have to open the ebox and disconnect the stator wires of course.

if it's the aluminium part of the pipe you can take it off and have it welded pretty cheap if it's not too bad. call welders and ask if they can weld aluminium.

Do you own a multimeter? you can disconnect the start switch's connector, near where your fuel filter is. do a continuity test on the part going to your switch, push the button and see if you get continuity (the switch closes). if that's ok, then jump the connector going to the selenoid and see...

If I am follwing you correctly, you should have 100% of your water flowing into your manifold, out of the head, and through the headpipe. once you come out of the bottom, of the headpipe, you can do what you want, as long as some of it goes to the waterbox. you got to have 100% flow not half...

you have two fittings on your exhaust manifold? if I understand, you want to take the single water intake and split it to the two fittings? no problem with that. or you could just use one input and put a plugged piece of hose on the other.